Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Fitting the Top

This little number is requiring a fair amount of fiddling around to get the fit right. It would just be wrong if the fit is botched.

After a quick measurement prior to cutting, I realized that this top would be too small at the sides. I added extra that would be needed by placing the front and back pattern pieces 1/4" away from the fold (both pieces are placed on the fold and the top has a side zip). Generally, this worked well except for gaping at the top front. To rectify this, I moved over the front side seam by about 1/2", tapering to the top bust dart (I left the back alone since the fit there was good)...

...did you notice how cute this top is with two, parallel bust darts? I LOVE the shaping on this top. You can see how it nearly stands on its own simply by sewing in all of the darts!

Anyway, back to the fitting. (Detailing excites me!) Taking in the front side seam above the darts worked. But the straps were SERIOUSLY long. I'm used to shortening straps on most everything I make with straps. These were longer than usual, though... especially for something with a 32B. Am I that short over my shoulders? I adjusted the strap by 1/2" in the back, where the straps meet in a "V". It needed a lot more however, so I adjusted the remaining 1 1/2" or so in the front! I also shifted the straps towards the center front by about 1/2", to accommodate the changes made at the side seam.
The top is lined with a "short" lining. This is fine for my fabric, since it is quite thick. But if you were using a lightweight fabric, I'd recommend a full lining.

I had a white, 55/45% linen/cotton blend in my stash which I'm using for the lining. It's nice and lightweight and will breath on those hot summer days. It's cut from the same front and back pieces, only shorter.

The same adjustment were made to the side seam. Now that fitting is sorted out and the straps are adjusted, I can put it all together. Hopefully, this will be finished tomorrow or Thursday!


Darla: Retro Ways said...

So cute, I adore the fabric and 2 darts! Genius! It is so adorable what pattern did you use is I may ask? ♥

Anonymous said...

Very cute is right!

Trudy said...

The shaping is amazing. The two bust darts really makes a difference.


Trudy said...


I wanted to congratulate you on winning the Vintage Pattern Review Contest with your 1940s wrap dress. I just found out this morning that you were a winner. I love the dress. The fabric you chose is perfect with the drape.