When Ladies Dressed

Anne Adams Dress - "Easy, Interesting"

2011-05-03T15:05:00.000-05:00

Anne Adams 4713 Mail Order Postmarked 1959... I've had this pattern for two years; it was part of an auction haul. What is fun is that the original owner, Marcie, included the newspaper clipping from which she saw and ordered it! (This is what makes vintage collectiing fun.) The ad states the pattern is "Easy, Interesting".

Good thing because I want to make it for PR Weekend and have less than two weeks! For the life of me, I cannot make up my mind on fabric. Marcie indicated in pencil that she was going to use green crepe...

I'm using a linen/rayon blend. It has a pretty brown/beige/cream hibiscus floral pattern with splashes of sky blue. Stay tuned for progress pics!
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Finished Dress - Weird Pictures!

2011-04-07T12:52:00.002-05:00

The "good" camera was used for the pics I took of the finished dress!!!! BUT, it created a very distinct and distracting shadow on each and every pic!!! Gah!

I will re-take pics again, but for now, here is a pic - try to look past the shadow on the wall!

Back to the Business of Dresses (Capris are now a UFO)

2011-04-03T18:52:00.026-05:00

I made good progress on my capris, then I lost interest and they officially transcended into UFO status.

THEN, I picked up a different UFO that was cut over a year ago, a 1940's house dress in a vintage floral fabric. I tried so hard to love this project. It was one of those projects that seemed like a good idea at the time, but didn't work when it came down to the sewing part. I tried to not give up on it, giving it "one more step" before declaring it a wadder. I finally reached that point when a friend pointed out that the fabric looked like an old sheet!!! I had that "OMG" moment, because did (even though the fabric was not a recycled sheet).

At this point, the time was ripe for a project in which I'd hit my zone again. I'm happy to report I FOUND IT! I've had this fantastic pattern, McCall's 4417 from 1957, for a couple of years and have had the urge to get it out of my system. With warmer weather around the corner (I hope), a sun dress called. My world is happy when I'm sewing a vintage sun dress. I'm using a lovely tissue weight 100% linen, a taupe with dark brown pinstripes on it. This fabric was used two years ago on a different dress that didn't quite work out (not because of fabric, but not a good style on me). I had just the right amount to do the slim version. I used a medium weight linen blend in solid brown for the neck band and belt.

The pattern calls for an optional lining. It's a vintage lining, which is not the full length of the skirt. I found a tissue weight linen/cotton blend to use for the lining and decided to underline the bodice since the linen fabric is semi transparent (like when the light is behind you and you can see through). These two fabrics have been a dream to sew. And I love how linen shapes. Yes, it wrinkles, but it's linen! And the lining/underlining should alleviate the wrinkling a teeny bit. These are the back bodice pieces after the underlining was basted and darts sewn: The neckline on this appears fiddly and difficult at first glance. BUT, once you start working it and doing the pleats, step by step it really makes sense! Just mark well and you won't be disappointed. In this pic, you can see where the neckband is pinned and then sewn about an inch and a half (orange arrow shows the other side prior to pinning). This picture shows pleats formed AFTER the neck band is sewn as just stated. It's a bit "floppy", but after the pleats are made, it lines up perfectly. Baste across top edge of neckband after pleats are stitched. This pic shows the neck band facing in place. It is sewn across the top edge of the neck band (after the back neck band is seamed at shoulders), then hand slip stitched down on the inside. I cracked away at this project last week, had my cousin's son for the weekend so work stopped for a couple of days.... and just attached the bodice to skirt this evening. All that is left now is inserting the zipper and hemming! Hopefully I'll have finished pics tomorrow or Tuesday at latest!

Of course, no project of mine would be complete without a token mishap. This project's involved the iron and my box of threads... I ran out of a spool and while pulling out various other spools from my plastic box, placing upon the fabric and contemplating/comparing to get the best match, I suddenly smelled something odd, like burning plastic! To my horror, I looked up and it WAS plastic!!! I'd flipped the lid of the box open and it was leaning against the plate on my iron. The whole corner and latch melted and was dripping/stuck to the iron. The good news is after completely cooling, I was able to pull off the plastic in about three pieces. :)

First Fitting of the Capris

2011-01-19T11:17:00.006-06:00

I basted the inner, outer and crotch seams for the first fitting. Overall, it's better than I anticipated. I expected them to be "tighter" rather than "looser".

The waistband is not on nor are the gathered insets, so I'm kind of holding them in place while taking pics in the mirror!!! Good think I'm a mom and used to tackling tasks requiring eight arms instead of two.

It seems good through the waist and the sides, but baggy at the back, just below my seat. The pattern is described as "semi-fitted". Now, I admit that when I wear pants, it's usually "skinny" styled jeans so I'm not certain how much room these are supposed to have back there. Based on the illustration, it doesn't look like a "loose" style. However, I don't want these to fit like skinny jeans.

I don't think they're too far off. Time to consult my fitting books and sewing friends. Comments and suggestions about anything are most welcome!! i.e. style, fit, etc.

Yay, I'm on my way!

Expanding My Horizons

2011-01-18T09:34:00.004-06:00

For a long time, I've wanted to make pants but I've been chicken. There, I said it. One of the reasons I've loved dresses and skirts so much is that they are easier to fit and camoflage BTS: Big Thigh Syndrome. Making your own is the obvious solution to having good fitting and flattering pants.

However, herein lies the oxymoron with BTS and good fitting pants you make yourself: you have to figure out how to actually get them to fit. It's likely more than just "adding a little extra" to the outside seam...

So hop aboard and join me on my journey of my first pair of pants. They are not from a vintage pattern, but I hope you agree that they are cute. I really wanted to do View B with the ruffle but I don't have the right fabric on hand (how this can be with a stash to exceed life expectancy is beyond me). So I'm doing View C with the gathering. I think it's a great detail that adds some punch to a simple (and hopefully easy) design.

I'm using a cotton/linen blend with a chevron stripe design that's woven in. I envision the completed and PERFECTLY fitted capris matched with a simple tshirt and these cute Eric Micheal slings that are dupioni silk.

Cutting the fabric begins now!

Jacket is Finished

2011-01-07T13:13:00.005-06:00

I finished the jacket!

I'm sorry that I've not blogged as I've gone along. I managed to catch a bug (I think a mild case of flu) while on the cruise and was under the weather for three weeks, and subsequently run down going into Christmas.

Nevertheless, I've thrown myself into sewing. Overall, I'm very pleased with the jacket. I love the wool, from Emma One Stock and the construction was pretty straightforward.

There are a couple of things worth mentioning about the pattern. First, the collar/shoulder sections match really well. Just be sure to take your time cutting and marking accurately and you WILL be rewarded. Do NOT mistake the front facing "stitch-and-slash" for a dart!!! Ask me how I know that you should NOT make this error... I spent over an hour scratching my head wondering why the collar facing didn't match up to the facing.

Also, the lining is short and the top of the jacket hem shows. This irks me because I was very careful cutting. My advice is to cut the lining longer; you can always trim excess rather than being left short.

I love everything else about this jacket. It's not hard-core winter wear but perfect for autumn, mild winter and early spring days!

White Christmas - Yes, the Bing Crosby Classic!

2010-12-12T11:56:00.004-06:00

I've been sick with a nasty cold for nearly two weeks; sewing has been slow... so I thought I'd write about my Love-Hate relationship with the movie "White Christmas" after watching it last night!

I can hear the gasps: "What? Blasphemy! How can tanybody hate even a little bit that movie!!!" Trust me, it's not all hate; I promise there really is a lot of love! Every year I am compelled to watch it for all the reasons it makes people feel warm and fuzzy. So stick with me and here it goes!! (I am not a movie critic, just a middle aged, vintage loving person!)

This movie is loaded with schmaltz and iconic imagery of Christmas. There is no movie in Hollywood history with more schmaltz and nostalgia than White Christmas! From the opening scene with the soldiers listening to Bing Crosby sing with tears in their eyes, to the look on General Waverly's face when he walks into the converted barn with everybody there to honor him and save the inn (of course Bing Crosby's uniform still fits HIM perfectly), one cannot help but me moved. And that's the core of what the movie, good ole General Waverly!

I love and adore Vera-Ellen. She was an enormous talent and glides elegantly and effortlessly in every scene in which she appears. You simply cannot take your eyes off of her with her angelic face, 21" waist and legs that I would ransom my children for! In real life this poor woman struggled with anorexia, ill health and her only child died from SIDS. She deserved so much more fame and recognition... In particular, and this is just speculation on my part... BUT has anybody else ever thought that Barbie Millicent Roberts (yes, the Barbie Doll) was modelled specifically after Vera-Ellen???

And here we go, but Rosemary Clooney bugs me. I apologize to all of the Rosemary Clooney fans who read this. Apart from her role in the scene on the train to Vermont singing "Snow" and the nightclub scene sitting at the table with Bing Crosby in that FANTASTIC blue dress, I think there are scores of others actresses who could have played her role better... like Doris Day. (Disclaimer: I love Doris Day and my dressform, Doris, is named after her).

Thank goodness Mary Wicke was cast as The General's housekeeper to off-set Clooney's boring role. Nobody does wisecracking like she does it! She is another Hollywood classic who appeared regularly throughout her career! And while we're at General Waverly's inn, does anybody else wonder where the rest of his family is besides the granddaughter? It can be assumed that perhaps his wife passed... but Waverly had at least a daughter or son who produced said granddaughter... did I miss the part that establishes who the granddaughter's parents are? Does this even really matter?

I cringe watching the two women perform the number "Sisters". Give me Jane Russell and Marilyn Monroe donning top hats and red dresses any day: THAT's how you bring down the house with a dynamic female duo!... The rendition of "Sisters" was far more entertaining when performed by Danny Kaye and Bing Crosby than the two ladies.

Which of course brings me to Danny Kaye. It's hard to imagine this film WITHOUT him, yet he was not first choice!!! Word has it that this was intended to be a Bing Crosby and Fred Astaire reunion, which yes, would have been lovely! But Danny Kaye's comedic expertise is just perfect for that role and is pivitol in establishing the relationship between Wallace and Davis that began as war buddies... poignant from Kaye saving Crosby's life in the war, but adding a lighthearted punch and sense of loyalty. I only wish they didn't include that horrid number of Kaye's where he looks like a mime and the girls have the ponytails! It's so out of sync with the rest of the movie!

Danny Kaye was such a household name, he was involved in so much on the big screen, tv and behind the scenes. He was one of the classic stars born in the era where an entertainer was all encompassing: sing, dance, act and be comedic (shameless plug again for Doris Day)...

And as much as I love Danny Kaye and Vera-Ellen, I really DO NOT want to hear them all sing White Christmas together at the end of the movie! Leave that to Bing Crosby and his wonderfully smooth voice that melts my heart. NOBODY should mess with that!!!

So if you can get past the bad cuts, the mime number (sorry, to call it that but it's what springs to mind for me), Rosemary Clooney (sorry again), some voids in plot and the fact that all those people in the final scene were able to just get themselves ready for a formal dress event on Christmas Eve at the drop of a hat (well, it was for General Waverly), you have a real, heart-warming classic that I JUST HAVE TO WATCH every year!!!

Hmmm.... I suddenly feel like a glass of mulled wine while listening to Bing sing White Christmas!

3 Christmas Gifts, 2 Wool Coats and iPhone in a Pear Tree

2010-12-09T14:21:00.005-06:00

Thanks so much for the responses on "which project next" dilemma...

...I've decided that I will make the coat. I brought the wool in for dry cleaning and picked it up yesterday. It also has me thinking of another wool coat dress combo I'd like to make for a Vogue Paris Original pattern. But the current coat is now ready to start cutting.

In the meantime, I used the waiting time (while wool was at the cleaners) and started work on a few hand-sewn Christmas gifts... aprons! As a result of my sewing kick in September and October, several of the ladies in my life made comments about them so I thought an apron would make a good gift.

The other thing that has had me slightly preoccupied is that I got a new iphone4!!! I've officially moved into the 21st century and boy is it a lot of fun! Just a while ago, I installed the "Fabric Stash" app for tracking and planning all of your stash, fabric and supplies alike. Has anybody used this? If so, I'd love to hear your review!!

Stay tuned for progress on the coat!

Next Project - Undecided About What to Make

2010-12-01T14:37:00.005-06:00

You know how it is after finishing a big and successful project: there's a feeling of accomplishment and elation... and if you're anything like me, your sewing room/space looks like a tornado went through it.

While up in my room starting the tidying up process, I was of course distracted by the unstoppable lure of What-to-Make-Next. Patterns, fabric, creative juices flowing....Does this happen to you? (but the room still isn't tidied up!)

I've got it narrowed down to four options:

1) A 60's dress in a lightweight, black wool. This is already cut and ready to sew (intended for a specific pair of shoes!). The fabric and style is perfect for this time of year and will see me all the way through until most of spring.

2) A 40's dress that I call my "Farmer's Housewife" dress, in a very lightweight and breezy vintage cotton-blend floral. This also is already cut and ready to sew. It is a quick and cheerful project that is always a nice follow-up after a big project like the gown.

3) A Simplicty re-issue topper/coat. I bought a gorgeous wool coating last year specifically for making this coat. It's a brown/green/turquoise houndstooth from Emma One Stock. This is not yet cut like the first two options, but that's not a reason to not start it! Tis the right time of year for a new coat and if I don't make it soon, there is the danger another winter could slip by with it not made.

4) A siren dress from the early/mid-50's for a business Christmas function at the Embassy Suites. I LOVE the pattern, and it's the right occasion, BUT I'm admittedly the least enthusiastic for this possibility, and I don't have a fabric picked out for it. I just feel the function presents the right timing.
So, what do all of you ladies think? What gets your vote?

Updated Gown Pics from Cruise - McCalls 3101

2010-11-29T10:31:00.005-06:00

As promised!!!

Next up, I'll be finishing several projects that are CUT, but not sewn! But first, I need to unpack and resume my regular, healthy eating!

The Gown!

2010-11-17T15:34:00.003-06:00

Here it is!!! The stole is almost done, but I wanted to get the gown documented... I spent today slipstitching the bodice lining into place.

I am thoroughly AMAZED that there were no major disasters making this! I will say one thing regarding fit: the waistline is a true 50's wasp waist. This is a 32B-26 1/2 W. My waist is 27" and there is NO ease whatsover.

Having said that, with all of the ruching, the waist NEEDS to be pulled taught otherwise it would look like a sack of gathering and the curves would be completely lost. Just keep that in mind if you ever decide to make this.

I will get more pictures from the cruise and promise to post them so that everybody can see the final, finished look!

Thank you all for following me on this project!

Gown is Coming Together

2010-11-16T14:23:00.004-06:00

I've been working flat out on the gown for several days now. The plants haven't been fed and the children haven't been watered. I apologize in advance for any typos or non-sensical statements!

I've got it all put together: lining facing to skirt lining; skirt lining to skirt; skirt to bodice, the zipper is in. The hemline has the hem tape sewed and is turned up ready to sew. Then the bodice lining will need to be slip stitched into place.

Skirt Facing - dupioni underlined with organza:

Skirt Facing sewn to skirt lining (18mm silk crepe). Understitiching - you can see how it prevent rolling. It also provides shape and control of fabrics:

Skirt Facing attached to Skirt Lining:"

Close up of zig-zag for sewing top of skirt facing to the lining:

There have been very few REAL problems. The zipper went in with one shot which one can only hope for when ruching is involved. Admitedly, I took time and hand basted in place first. And admitedly #2, it's a bit wonky in one spot, but the ruching disguises it so I left it! Ssshhh!

The one problem I did have was last night while trying the gown on, the ruching popped on the right seam. This was entirely my fault because earlier in the day, I was feeling cocky and clever and thought I'd try something... I seamed the zipper side from the notch side up to the top which made it too small to get over my head and even my very small bust... while wriggling and worming out, I heard a "pop". It seemed OK at the time when I inspected, but alas, it came to roost a bit later.

Ideally, I should have put binding strips to back the ruching on the inside and I'm surprised the pattern doesn't say to that. Fortunately, the fix was quick. The ruching popped at the very top so I took the stitching down 1 1/2", tied off the ends, and re-sewing the three lines of ruching stitching in that top 1 1/2".

So off to hem I go. With any luck, I'll be able to knock out the stole and pics tomorrow!

The Skirt

2010-11-12T16:59:00.006-06:00

In the world of dresses, there are skirts... and then there are skirts.

This gown has one helluva skirt!!

It's not complicated really. It's eight gores with ruching at the top several inches. While the bodice is ruched in four places (front and back centers and both sides) the skirt is ruched at every seam, giving a swag effect.

It's simplicity makes it elegant. The elegant swags pick up the lustre and body of the shot dupioni. I know when walking in it, the movement will make it dance under the light.

I quickly pulled up the ruching and before fastening off at the top, the gathering needs to be lengthened a bit. They are a bit too tight and poofy in the pic and need to be elongated to swag. But that's just a little minor adjustment.

Next up is cutting and sewing the skirt lining from the silk crepe. I'm going to try to make headway on that this evening so that it can be sewn together tomorrow.

Finally, these are the shoes that I'll be wearing the gown! I found them earlier this year when I decided on the fabric and pattern and instantly KNEW they were perfect. They are Ellen Tracy strappy heels encrusted with coppery glitter. They'll peep out from beneath the skirt giving off a flash and sparkle!!!

Work on Gown Has Resumed!

2010-11-11T09:54:00.005-06:00

*Pics at end of post! ;)

Leave it to me to start a project seven months in advance, then pick it back up two weeks before it is actually needed!!!

But that's the work-under-pressure in me. I work better under pressure; my brain snaps into gear and I get ultra focussed! Of course, now that I'm totally into this project and into the zone, everything else is being neglected. Who said I'm supposed to feed the kids?

Thankfully, when I last worked on the gown, I did make good progress. Here's what WAS done:

- All dupioni pieces cut and underlined with silk organza (excepting the two side back skirt pieces)
- Bodice constructed with gathering
- Bodice interlining constructed (made from silk/cotton batiste)
- Bodice lining cut (from 18mm silk crepe)

The first task at hand was making a correction on the bodice. The front and pieces were not lined up well at the seam. I do not know what I was thinking at the time, but rather than ripping it then and there, I proceeded to sew the three lines of gathering on that seam for the ruching. D'uh! The bottom, waistline seam was nearling an inch off between the two pieces. I guess I was thinking that I could just "lose" the differences in the seams... upon thinking more, doing that could make the waistline sit way too high...

...SO, I bucked up and decided to do it right and ripped the seam, three lines of gathering and re sewed all of it. I'm glad I did!

After that was done I felt like I was progressing forward. I sewed the bodice lining. It has lots of darts for a very fitted shape: two angled side bust darts, two waistline darts and a center bust dart that is clipped at the center. *Note, remember when sewing large, curved darts like the center one to start from the center and sew OUTWARDS to the point. ;)

I hemmed and hawed about sewing in cups instead of wearing a bra. I fiddled and fussed with the placement of them and the silk crepe shifted around frustratingly. So I admit it, I said "sod it" and started on the channels for the boning.

I used plastic featherweight boning, not the industrial strength metal stuff. The pattern calls for sewing the casings directly onto the lining, but I chose to make the interlining and sew channels. There are four channels two just to the outside of the bust/inside the side seams and two at the back waistline darts.

When sewing channels, I always start at the top and sewn down to the waist, then repeat at the other side. This prevents the fabric from twisting/pulling because the stitching is going in the same direction.

After the channels were done, I sewed the lining to the bodice at the top neckline, understitched then pinned the lining to the bodice at the sides and bottom to adjust the ruching. THEN I tried it on! I was sooo excited! It's VERY fitted but the silhouette is just stunning! AND, the edge on the neckline is just perfectly smooth with no rolling!

After that, I started sewing the seams for the skirt. Ahhhh, nice long straight seams after the detailed work on the bodice!!! I then cut the silk organza for the last two skirt pieces and pinned them on, ready to baste!

SO, I'm on a roll! Please send me positive nothing-major-will-go-wrong vibes so that I can get this finished in time!

And oh yeah, it's great to work on a project like this! It's why I love sewing!

Skirt pieces underlined in silk organza:

Inside the bodice - lining:

The Bodice all ruched up:

Boning channels - sew both edges downwards in the same direction to prevent twisting:

Interlining in silk/cotton batiste:

Hiatus Over the Summer

2010-10-13T10:53:00.003-05:00

I took a hiatus from sewing over the summer. In a good way. It was a wonderful, hot summer and I spent a lot of time outdoors swimming and entertaining visitors. Sewing always seemed to be on the back burner.

Once school resumed, I jumped back in. First project up was a 1940's sundress. It's cute, and I typed up a long post here on my blog. When I hit "publish" to my horror, the internet service went out! It's true, I tell ya! It was an area wide outage (I received a refund for that day's service)... but it was enough to dislodge me from blogging pursuits!

Then my apron kick started, documented in the pictures below.

I've got one more apron in the works in a very cute cherry fabric. After that is finished, work will resume on my vintage ball gown, where I left of back in the spring! Happy Autumn 2010!

Silk Vintage Gown is Underway!

2010-04-09T19:29:00.005-05:00

Before I get to what I've accomplished so far, I feel I have to address the issue of what to call this gown. The pattern description is prosaic. It only reads "An evening dress in two lengths with stole." What? Well, that is what it is.... but I mean come on! Was it 5:00 and time to punch out when the person who's job it was to write patten descriptions got to this one?

Whatever the reason, it deserves more: "Elegant evening dress or gown with decadent, swagged shaped gathering over the entire sweetheart bodice. Gathering extends below the waistline into the full, billowing eight gore skirt. Wear with stole for romantic evening under the stars." Doesn't that sound better?

So onto the project itself!

After several hours of futzing with the dupioni fabric choices over several days, I finally decided on one. It wasn't the orange-shot-with-red and rose embroidery one. I was a bit disappointed, but try as I may, there was no way I was going to get the eight gores placed properly over the swagged embroidery pattern to make it match up.

I moved onto the solid dupionis and decided upon a gorgeous color described as "rust". It is in fact, a dark sandy color shot with red which gives it the all over rust shade. It is stunning. I love how it picks up the red as you/the fabric moves. This will give hopefully give the gathering great depth and show off finished gowns movement.

Also, the rust should be outstanding for a gown on an autumn Caribbean cruise.

I did not wash the dupioni because I didn't want it to lose the lustre and body. Because the gown won't be something that will be thrown into the washing machine, nor will it be worn frequently, this is not a problem. After pressing all of the yardage yesterday, I cut out all of the pieces for the gown and the stole. There wasn't enough for the skirt lining facings, but I will use a natural, tan dupioni for that.

Yesterday, I also ordered the other fabrics that I did not have in my stash. I'm splurging on a dyed silk crepe for the lining, a silk/rayon brocade for the stole lining and silk/cotton batiste for the foundation lining. While I had silk organza in my stash for the underlining, it wasn't enough so I ordered more of that too.

Today, I cut the organza underlining (that I had) and started basting it to the dupioni pieces. Because organza shifts a lot, I was very careful keeping it on grain before and during cutting. To cut, I used a rotary cutter which is a must for slippery/shifty fabrics!!! Scissors pull and distort the fabric whereas there is no interferance with the rotary.

To keep the organza and dupioni from slipping while basting together, I used a lot of pins. I'm a "pinner". I know lots of people get by without pinning or minimal pinning, but I just can't. I was pleased that the organza and dupioni matched up and sewed well. When basting underlining to fabric, according to my Vogue Sewing Book, sew all the way along one side. Stop and repeat along all sides; the stitching lines will cross at corners... i.e. do not turn the corners in one, continuous line... my pieces turned out flat with no twisting or puckering (something I worried about); I pressed when finished basting.

After the bodice pieces were underlined, I marked the darts and gathering lines. This is the wrong side, organza showing with markings:

Next, I started pinning the organza to the skirt pieces, but then it was time to start dinner! Darn! Why do people have to eat when I'm in the zone! I'm really psyched about this gown which I hope will turn out to be elegant with a fiery glow. I can't wait to work on it tomorrow!

New Project - Vintage Gown

2010-04-06T12:09:00.007-05:00

I'm going to make a declaration. 2010 is starting out to be: The Year I Got My Favorite Vintage Patterns Out of My System. All of us vintage addicts have at least one or two or 20 patterns that we have to get out of our system, right? My recently finished red wool dress was one of them.

My new project is also one of them. However like a lot of these drop-dead gorgeous, vintage concoctions, it's not something you'd wear every day... or even once a year. It's a 50's formal gown in all of its opulent glory.

The good news is, I actually have occasion to wear a couple of formals this year. In the autumn, we are going on a cruise with two formal nights! Some people pooh-pooh formal evenings on cruise ships as being outdated or a chore. But oh no, not I. Not ever! It's an OPPORTUNITY to dress to the hilt and relish in the glamor of it all. There are so few occasions in which to dress formally that I will do my part to keep it alive.

So I'm going to make McCall's 3101 - in the full length version.
It's going to be in dupioni silk; I have about 10 or 12 in my stash, most with enough yardage, although I'm not quite sure which one I'll use. The one I'm currently favoring is embroidered, which means a nap layout....which means after it's all lined up to match the pattern, there may not be enough. I just pressed the pattern pieces and now have to lay them out to see if it will work. If not, I'll use a solid.

A little bit of this particular pattern's history: Original Owner only used the bodice pieces. All of the skirt pieces remain uncut. The poor bodice pieces were sliced in half, probably to lengthen, then taped back together with that horrible, old fashioned Scotch Tape which is now yellowed and brittle. I'll need to take great care with these pieces. They are fragile, but thankfully, still 100% there. I'll copy these and save with the pattern.

In the meantime, this is one of those projects that will be an adventure. It will turn out either: a) amazingly amazing, or b) an utter disaster that ends up a wadder. Feel free to take bets and stay tuned!

Apron Finished.. and Auctions! - Picture Heavy!

2010-04-04T17:29:00.028-05:00

OK, I lied. I got some sewing in sooner than I was expecting. This was most likely motivation as a direct result of an auction that we attended yesterday. We picked up some stuff...

...define "stuff" you ask? Well, I'm both excited and embarrassed at the same time. I'll explain, but first things first:

The Apron!

It's OK. Just don't look at it closely and it's OK. It's one of those projects that started off enthusiastically enough, but as it progressed, it lost it's luster. I think it's largely due to the fabric. It's cheapo stuff. The one with the irons/butterflies/hearts/etc. is likely a cheap poly/cotton blend from the 70's. It's loosely woven and stiff which makes for unattractive stitching (that's my story and I'm sticking to it.) The solid poly/cotton weaver's cloth isn't much better although it is marginally "softer", but don't confuse it soft. Both fabrics are stiff.

Because of the poly content, the fabrics didn't press nicely. This made the narrow hemming a chore (which I normally enjoy... if you already don't like this step, forget it!) The pressing popped out in several places at first so I had to redo it and pin closer together... grrrrrr.

Then I used a maroon trim that I had in my stash. It's flat, not ruffled as the pattern indicated. Because I had said hemming issue with pressing (see above), instead of picking out the hem I slapped trim onto the bottom edge... but still, some of the original stitching shows (remember, I said don't look closely!!!)

Another little bummer was when I thought I was being clever. Operative word: thought. I didn't like how the shoulder strap was sewn to the back side of the bib. So I thought I'd tuck the straps into the seam between the front bib and facing bib. I did this and woo hoo'd myself. Then I realized the reason the pattern called for sewing it on the back was because of the trim application!!! If sandwiched between the front and facing, as I did, the trim would go behind the straps. So I had to rip the straps out and sew to the back. This wasn't major, but that's what I get for thinking! grrrrrrr.

In the end, the result isn't so bad, just don't look closely!!! This will be our secret!! Nobody but my sewing allies will know!

So, onto the auction finds that spurred my motivation:

For a total of $10, these items were sold as a lot: a) Greist Buttonholer b) another Greist Buttonholer that says "Kenmore" c) Stitch Master d) Singer Deluxe Monogrammer e) Kenmore Monogrammer and Templates (the stitching foot is missing.)

Additionally, I got a Singer Sew Handy children's sewing machine, in the original box with instruction manual. The box is a bit beat up, but nonetheless, it's the box! Also, the spool spindle and seam guide are missing, but these are easily replaced. This was $22.

Next is an old Singer 66... I haven't figured out which model 66 but based on the serial number, it was released between 1953-1955. It's in rough shape, in a blonde wood cabinet (which gave me an idea to it's age anyway)... When plugged in, the motor ran and light turned on. The cabinet has the knee pedal as well as a foot pedal. However, the belt needs replacing and who knows what else. So why buy it??? Well, it came complete with foot accessories and fabulous "Singer Gripper - An extra hand for holding material". I've really wanted one of those for a while!!! Oh, and the machine, et al cost $5. No typo, $5...

I do want to try to get the machine running, but if I'm not successful, the $5 was worth it for the Gripper and additional feet.

And now here's the embarrassing part: there were three treadles and we came home with all three. I wasn't interested in them and had no intention on bidding. But when nobody wanted them, DH was like "What? $5? You can't even buy a beer in England for that! Get them!" So it's his fault. They are in various stages of: death, delapidation, deterioation and disrepair. And that's being kind. Neverthless, each one was $5 and I felt that they need a chance at rehab and life so we'll give it a go at repairing them. I'll get pics of these soon.

We also got other non-sewing items: about a dozen Wheaton bottles (I had some as a kid), Two boxes of Berry Pink solid color marbles, shoe lasts (in eight sizes) with three stand (this was DH's purchase) and two very large bags of costume jewerly, much of it vintage. Oh, and a Sears catalog from 1975 (that was DH too).

I also bought two pairs of 1950's cat eye glasses! I'm going to get at least one filled with my own prescription! I've seen genuine frames sell for a lot of money and I got these for a total of $6.

So now with all of this vintage goodness, I can get on with my vintage sewing. This "old" stuff really does breathe "new" life into me!

It's Spring!

2010-03-29T10:09:00.002-05:00

It actually feels like spring, too!

I've done done any sewing the last two weeks. It seems there's always something else going on. And I'm not one of those people who can sew a little here or a little there. I become completely consumed with a project and when I'm in the zone, I really dislike having to stop for anything.

At the moment, I'm not in any zone! DH is working on remodelling the basement. With spring, yardwork is beckoning. I have my mini greenhouse set up, waiting for me to start on the seeds for the veggie garden. Plus, the boys are smelling the end of the school year now. Spring break begins this Friday then it's the final stretch to the finish line.

So sewing has taken the back burner. I will eventually start a new project, but it may not be for a few weeks.

Red Wool Dress - Finished with Pics

2010-03-17T13:38:00.008-05:00

OK, I'm a couple of days late... but better late than never!

It was a beautiful day today and my wonderful DH came home for lunch so that he could take pictures outside on the deck! If that doesn't say love, I don't know what does! In fact, he said "Hey, this dress is actually nice!"

Actually? Meaning the others aren't nice?... I'll let that one slide since he came home to be my fashion photographer. Besides, I take as husband-speak for he likes it!

*Black mesh shoes by Prevata.

Red Wool Dress is Finished; Starting an Apron

2010-03-11T13:01:00.004-06:00

I finished the red wool dress on Tuesday. I'm really pleased with it overall! I promise to get pictures of me wearing it this weekend, when DH is available to play photographer (Oh lucky DH - he doesn't know this yet!)

In the meantime, I started a quick, fun project: a new apron! My friend is having a tamale making party at her house on Saturday. I love tamales but have never made them.

So I thought I would make a new apron for the occasion, one that would be fun, festive and colorful.

Louise's stash never fails (from an auction last year). There was just one yard of 35" fabric with a fabulous, colorful pattern of butterflies, vases, irons, roosters and medallions on it. It's a stiff cotton, perhaps a blend. It washed up well... there isn't enough for the entire apron so I'm using a neutral "weaver's cloth" (a cotton/poly blend) that has been in my stash. It's a similar weave and similar color (ever so slightly "greener") to Louise's fabric. If anything, the hand is a bit softer. I also have a few embellishment ideas in mind to liven up the plain fabric as well as coordinate with the fun fabric.

I'm not really sure from when this vintage fabric dates: all guesses are welcome! It's 35" wide, stiff and maybe a blend (must do burn test... or ask my friends Michelle and Elaine!) If this fabric doesn't say "Apron!", I don't know what does.

I picked the apron pattern after deciding on the fabric...I have several apron patterns in my stash... It's a simplicity reissue from two different vintage patterns. I'm making the version with the yellow striped fabric.

In the meantime, stay tuned for the dress pics this weekend, as well as a summary of my adventures in tamale making!

Almost There

2010-03-08T16:32:00.005-06:00

The dress is almost finished.

I got the zipper in. Funny how it went in perfectly the second time around! I also brought the side skirt seams in by 1/4", the part that I actually added when I cut the pieces. Finally, the bands on the dress were taken in by 1/2". I had to open up the side seam to do that...

That leaves the hem and the hook/eye then the dress will be finished. I have the jacket pieces cut, so when the dress is finished, I'll start on that.

I'm pretty pleased so far, despite all of the fiddling early on with the bands.

Inside sleeve. Catching stitching hem.

Inside skirt, front pleats. If you look closely, you can see the stitching lines.

Hanging for a day or so before hemming. Doris is happy to wear the dress until then!

Progressing on the Red Wool Dress

2010-03-07T08:48:00.003-06:00

I am moving along on the dress. Yesterday, I thought I might actually complete the dress today... however, it's not to be. After sewing the skirt and bodice together, I ran into three minor issues that need a re-do:

1) I inserted the zipper and it's out of whack. I have to rip and do over.
2) When cutting the skirt, I added a little extra at my usual "saddle bag" spot. The good news is, I lost weight (been working out since Jan.) The bad news, which is actually GOOD news, is that I don't need that extra any more! So I have to re-seam and take out the extra I added.
3) The front bodice bands are too long/loose. I have to open up the bodice side seams and reposition the bands.

None of these things are major. Just par for the course fitting, etc. so I'm not bothered.

In fact, I'm stunned at how this dress fits. It's amazing how a bit of a weight loss really changes things. This pattern is 32B - 26W - 35H... The waist and hip required NO alterations. For the bodice, I had to take out an extra 1" at the center back seam where it was big and gaping (a typical alteration for me).

When I tried it on yesterday, DH said it's a really nice dress and likes the red wool a lot. I can't wait to get this finished; I'll post pics later today!

Bands... No Piping

2010-02-28T19:42:00.005-06:00

OK, I fiddled and fussed and pinned and adjusted the piping on the dress band.

The second attempt was worse than the first.

On the third attempt, I actually DID figure out how to get the piping around the pointed tips of the band without stretching and distorting the shape... After all of the above frustrations, it was an A-HA! moment and actually, pretty obvious. I'm annoyed that I didn't "get it" sooner.

What do you do prior turning a square neckline after stitching a facing or lining to the garment?.... DING DING! Clip the corners!!!!!!!!! So finally I cliped notches around the points, first on the piping before pinning in between the two band pieces prior to seaming. Worked like a charm. The only thing is, I felt the cording used for the piping should have been the thinner size. This would have given the polished result that the sleek lines required. It still looked lumpy.

Not 100% happy at this point, I'd already started formulating Plan B. Plan B consisted of ditching the piping all together and using a decorative stitch along the bands' edges. So I tested a strip and really, REALLY liked it. Plus, the stitch I chose matches some really elegant black buttons that I thought were too small and froo-frooey for the sleek lines of the bands as shown. The decorative stitching to me, softens the sharp angles.

The stitch I chose was not a one way design; it was the same regardless of which direction I was sewing. It had to be small and simple enough so that I could stop and/or turn at the points without the design repeat looking incomplete. I used a ruler and marked the band piece along the stitching line so that I had an absolutely straight line to follow; any wobbling would stick out like a sore thumb!

I'm happy with this. Hooray! This project can now MOVE forward!

Bands and Piping

2010-02-21T17:16:00.006-06:00

Construction of the bands and piping come upon you pretty quickly in this pattern. I don't know about you, but I love to make piping.

It's not difficult, it just takes a wee bit of extra time. But like most things, you get back what you put in. When you make your own, you can use any fabric you want to give the desired effect.

For this dress, I'm using black lightweight wool, the same as the red wool. To cut the strips, I use my handy dandy quilting ruler which has angles marked right onto it. I line up the bias angle to the selvage edge and cut the strips along the edge to the desired length.

To make the bias, you don't need a special bias foot. I use a zipper foot and then move/adjust my needle position over up to the edge of the foot. Then the stitching is right up against the cording.

So that's the simple part. I knew that assembling the bands with the piping and points would be challenging... I did one band and I have to go back and restitch some wobbly edges and redo the point at the top... which isn't really a point. My band came out more curved, which I actually like and prefer. The issue will be keeping ALL of the bands consistent in shape: two dress bands and the two jacket sleeves and two lower jacket bands.

So tomorrow will begin with me fiddling with the band to get the point shape the way that I want. I anticipated exactly this, but felt up to the challenge rather than taking the easy, dull option out.

And I'm Off!...

2010-02-20T12:51:00.006-06:00

...I started sewing the red dress. It always feels soooo good to get started. Cutting is not one of my favorite parts of sewing. Others may feel differently, but I just want to get behind the machine and go!

This wool is lovely to work with. It's such a dream to press and mark. It starts with the big, diagonal bust darts on the bodice front. They're sewn, then trimmed and pressed open. Just holding that piece up to myself in front of the mirror is exciting! It's the first glimpse of the shaping. I did that and the two darts on the back bodice.

Pattern piece with the big dart:

Big darts sewn, prior to trimming:

Darts trimmed and pressed:

I just threw the black wool that I'll use for the piping in washing machine. The front bands are the next step so the black wool needs prepping. I hope this dress turns out well!

New Pattern

2010-02-20T10:36:00.003-06:00

I just bought this pattern and simply put, I LOVE it. It's a Vogue Paris Original 1271 by Patou.

I'm not sure when I'll make it since the current red wool ensemble is likely the last winter project of the season. The gathers along the bodice and the buttoned band... mmmm. This requires some very special fabric. I've got time to think and get it right.

On the Cutting Table

2010-02-17T08:23:00.005-06:00

I'm more than half way through cutting a new project. I guess all of the talking about losing my motivation helped me to get motivated!

This Advance pattern has been calling to me for a while, but I never really figured out exactly how I wanted to do it. Finally, it said "red, lightweight wool". I love, love love the deep red of this wool. I'm going to make the whole shebang, including the jacket.

Although I'm not a boxy jacket kind of person, the band detailing pulls the whole look together. I'm going to make the piping that surrounds the bands in the same lightweight wool in black and use black buttons.

All in all the small details of this dress are great: the banding with buttons and piped trim, the raglan sleeves and those cute pleats at the bottom front of the skirt...

And for a quick update on that other Advance 6316 dress... the sundress with the square neckline in the blue wavy fabric.... well, that project turned out to be a disappointment. There are two things that I don't like:

1) I goofed on adding extra to the bodice. I placed the center front slightly off of the fold and as a result, the shoulder straps are sitting too far out on my shoulder. I should have added the extra at the side seam. It's only 1/2", but just enough to make it "off".

2) The cotton fabric is too stiff and therefore, the skirt does not fall into nice, elegant drapes. Instead, it sticks out in more of an A-line, which ruins the whole look, in my opinion.

The only thing left for me to do is install the zipper. I'm not going to bother with the jacket. I'll finish the dress, but it's likely to find its way to Goodwill...

Oh, and one last thing. SHOES. Thanks for all of your fun comments! I still have many more pairs to photograph and store. But five days have come and gone and DH has NOT exiled me from the closet! hee hee, so I'm getting some sewing in while I can! More shoes will come.

Shoes Take #3

2010-02-14T11:17:00.014-06:00

Time is running short. Here is the next batch!

Zodiac: Black satin fabric with lots of straps! The thick heel gives them substance; there's nothing delicate about these!

Karen Scott: Dark brown leather with a cute gold band accent. These are super comfy while still looking good.

Caparros: Decadent black velvet with two styles of black and gold brocade! Worn with a black outfit, these shoes make a statement!

Liz Claiborne: Blue denim with leather straps and stud detailing. These clogs are one of my fav's and I wear them A LOT. The studs have a tiny little rhinestone in the center. They are fabulous with jeans or jean skirts or the denim trench dress that I have.

Nine West: Black leather with twist front and open toe. These are great shoes. Not too flashy with a touch of elegance, they never disappoint... and they are particularly comfy.

Carlos: Yeah Baby! These shoes are outrageously fun. The colors are actually brighter and more vivid than in the pic... I just got these last week. How could I resist? I want to make a vintage dress in a solid color that is in these shoes. You could not possibly wear something patterned with these!

Tahari: Black patent leather with black sequins. Another pair that makes me sigh... dazzling and classy, these are shoes for a special night out.

Marino Boutique: Copper and gold leather band with straps crossing the heel and front that keep these nice and secure.

"Mitsy knows more about shoes than I do." - DH (Mitsy is our dog.)

Shoes Take #2

2010-02-12T08:48:00.013-06:00

OK, DH has given me a deadline of five days to sort out my shoes. HE thinks they have taken over "his" allocated space on one of the closet shelves, which he describes as a puny 2 ft. x 2 ft. segment. (Is it wrong that I take up more than 3/4 of the entire closet?) Since he's taking a stand on this, and he's a very easy-going guy, I'd better work at a faster pace.

So here's what's up next:

Calvin Klein: Satin straps with rhinestone ankle straps. The rhinestones have strands of silver beads hanging from them. I used a stuffed footie in an attempt to show how these hang. They are HOT and perfect for a dressy occasion.

Tommy Hilfiger: Dark chocolate brown leather with a small "pebble" type pattern. The sole and outside edge of the heel are lined in suede. These are great looking AND comfortable; they dress up or down.

Talbots: Navy satin pumps. Understated elegance for any navy ensemble.

apostrophe: Dancing anybody? Silver metallic heels, straps and trim with a silver mesh sparkle... These will dazzle under the ballroom lights.

Keith Scarrott: Embroidered tans/bronze and gold overlaid on leather, metallic heel, sling back... sigh. I love these shoes; they are delectable in every way. Keith Scarrott is an independent retailer. I bought these at one of his exclusive stores in Cheltenham, England. At the time, they were a big splurge for me. While in England later this year, I may have to head back to Cheltenham to snag another pair or two... or ten!

Anne Klein: Black patent leather with gold buckle. Versatile and sassy.

"I don't know who invented the high heel, but all men owe him a lot." ~ Marilyn Monroe

Let's Talk About Shoes

2010-02-10T15:50:00.012-06:00

Since I have sewer's block, I thought I'd talk about something else dear to my heart: shoes!

I'm addicted to shoes. There, I said it. Actually, I've said it before and quite recently ... but let me be clear, I don't seek help!

A few months ago, I bought 80 plastic shoe boxes from The Container Store so that I can organize and better preserve them. Many of my shoes are purchased from T.J. Maxx; others are from Zappos and occasionally, from other stores. A few pairs are older, dating back to the mid 90's. There was a great shoe store In Chicago on Michigan Avenue called The Season's Best. Their prices dropped regularly. I would walk past on my way home from work and "follow" shoes that I wanted until they dropped to a price I could afford (which wasn't much then). Do any Chicagoans know if that store is still there?

As part of getting them all organized, I thought I'd take pictures and share here in case any of you are shoe-aholics like me. One can never look at too many shoes. I'll post a few pairs every time I do it. Maybe getting this done will help me get my sewing mojo back... I'll be thinking of what to make to match my shoes!

Report Signature - These are new. The fabric upper actually has a light gold metallic in the weave. It is lined in leather and has a sassy zipper on the back heel. The lower strap is leather. These are delicious and I cannot wait to wear them!

Liz Claiborne - Deep purple suede with black patent leather and ribbon lacing. I love purple and these have a witchy feel to them. Positively FUN and yes, I wore them on Halloween!

Steve Madden - Black patent leather loafer pumps. I love the chunky heel and bronzy buckle.

Franco Sarto - Ivory patent leather with holes, bow and gold trim! Positively girly with vintage flair! They're GREAT with polka dot dresses!

"I still have my feet on the ground, I just wear better shoes." Oprah Winfrey

What Next?

2010-02-08T09:23:00.003-06:00

I seem to have sewer's block. Every time I get excited about a new project, I either change my mind or lose interest.

On the cutting table now is a lightweight, 100% deep red wool intended for a vintage dress. It's been sitting there for over week, untouched.

I'd like to think I'd get around to it tomorrow or Wednesday, but my house is out of control. It needs a good Spring Cleaning and it's not even Spring yet.

Hopefully the sewing bug will kick in soon.

The Finished Skirt

2010-01-23T16:29:00.009-06:00

Better Late Than Never!

I really enjoyed making this skirt. It was well drafted, easy to sew and I still love the fun rear detailing! Making a statement when leaving is underrated... give 'em some RI: Rear Interest!

Up Next: A Dress!

2010-01-04T09:33:00.003-06:00

With the exception of the zipper, I finished my skirt. I really like it, despite the goofy mistakes that I made. But hey, it wouldn't be sewing without goofy mistakes. I've accepted the fact long ago that every project I make will be met with such errors.

After destroying the zipper beyond repair, it had to be ripped out. And I just haven't found the time to go to JoAnn's to buy another.

Therefore, I've prepped for my next project. It is another of Louise's patterns, a sun dress. (Yes, I know it's January and -2 without windchill, but I long for my summer dresses.)

The dress is simple and timeless. It's an unprinted Advance from the early 50's. The skirt drapes nicely, not too slim and not to full and bulky, and hopefully flattering. I'll use a fun, cotton print in shades of blue with wavy stripes... To me, the eye catcher is the bolero. I love the shape and the single button at the neckline. I'll make the bolero in a periwinkle blue linen.

My fabric is washed and prepped and the pattern is ready to go. I'll probably cut tomorrow as I have much to today... Stay tuned!

The Skirt Continues

2009-12-31T11:50:00.004-06:00

albeit at a slower pace than I anticipated. With Christmas, New Years and everybody home for the holidays (including DH), progress has been.

But that's ok, we've been having a good time!

Yesterday I got the waistband in place, pressed over and pinned, ready to hand sew on the inside. I must say, it looks quite good. The zipper, however, had to be ripped out. I placed it incorrectly, too high not allowing for the seam allowance where the waistband is sewn on. So thinking that I was being clever, trying to avoid ripping the zipper out, I decided to cut it from the top, then sew tacks on the teeth to act as the stops (that were snipped off).

Of course, after the project sat for a couple of days, I forgot that I did this. I didn't get around to making those tacks. After the waistband was on, I was marvelling in what a nice job I did and pulled the zipper up... and the pulled the pull RIGHT OFF. Gahhhh!

I tried to get it back on but to no avail. In the end, I ripped the zipper out and have to go and get another one. Thankfully, this was not the type of mistake that causes any damage. It's a time waster!

Here are a couple of pictures showing the inside of the pleat. The first one shows how the inset is sewn in. The second one shows how the pleat folds and lays in place.

Happy New Year to all and Happy Sewing!

A Classic and Sassy Skirt

2009-12-20T18:06:00.007-06:00

OK, for the last month or so, I've struggled to find the right project to get back into the swing of sewing.

Finally, inspiration struck. I scapped ideas for several other projects, including the silk slip (I didn't have the right size needles to get going...).

So, yesterday I STARTED sewing a skirt. Note, I said started, not: conceptualized, dreamed of, prepped fabric then proceeded to do nothing.... Yesiree, I actually washed, pressed, cut and started to sew a skirt!

It is one of Marcie's patterns, a McCall from 1958... a cute straight skirt with an inset pleat, back band and bow. The band and bow make this classic skirt a little bit sassy. I'm using a wool blend with a dark brown velvet floral-scrolly pattern. Last year, I made a dress out of a similar fabric: the wool was the same but the velvet was black and of a slightly different floral pattern... The back band and bow are a dark brown microsuede. (The skirt floral velvet photographed darker than it actually it - it is a rich brown, like the microsuede.)

As of an hour ago, I got the skirt front and back sewn together. The pleat is done via an inset, seamed to extensions on the center, lower back pieces. Then the top edge of the pleat is topstitched. I just love pleats and bows. For me, it is very satisfying to shape, press and form them.

This is just the project to get me going: vintage, quick and simple but with enough vintagy flair and detail to be interesting. Tomorrow I should be able to get the zipper and waistband on, then hem it!

Where Did November Go?

2009-12-05T07:46:00.005-06:00

Has it really been a whole month since I last posted here????

November turned out to be busy. I never even started the wool crepe dress for the PR "Sewing with Wool" contest, which was a real disappointment. BUT, life was taken over by other things: my husband was in a (minor) car accident (nobody hurt, but it wrote off his car), I was called to jury duty, I made two capes for a friend (paid) out of velvet and FUR for a Christmas parade. The capes were the source of great anxiety and stress because I had all kinds of problems and made mistakes (thank goodness my friends are wonderful and they liked the final products)...

...And I hosted some of my family on Thanksgiving/the weekend. It was fun, it's just that the whole month was busy and there wasn't a lot of time for sewing with one exception. The highlight, was that my sewing friends, Michelle and Elaine, came around on November 21 and we had a fabulous time with the usual chatting and eating!

So I'm ready to pick up a project again! After the cape debacle, I decided to work on a fun project that I've been wanting to do for a while: a vintage slip made from habotai silk. I bought an ivory/champagne colored habotai from Thai Silks several months ago specifically for this project. Yesterday, I washed and ironed the silk. It came out beautifully!

I'm going to make it so that I can wear it under the silk damask Hollywood Dress that I made for my anniversary dinner (and won the PR Vintage sewing contest). Friday is my husband's work Christmas party at a local Golf Club; the attire is "Dressy" and since I don't have time to make a new dress, I thought this dress would be perfect. I still love the luxurious silk damask and the red is perfect for the holidays. It's dressy, feminine and perfectly respectable for a work event.
I love the vintage slip pattern. Didn't anybody tell the girl that you're not supposed to wear shoes when weighing yourself????

Dress Appropriately

2009-11-04T19:44:00.005-06:00

Well, I got a Summons for Jury Duty in the mail today.

I need to be ready to report the week beginning November 23... the week of Thanksgiving! And get this, they don't even give you a postage-paid return envelope for the mandatory Juror Profile Questionnaire (but you do have the option to fill it out on-line).

If they use me, this will seriously cut into my Thanksgiving preparations!

As I was reading through the form with all of the instructions, I saw a box on the back side that says "ATTIRE - Jurors should dress appropriately in keeping with court room decorum."

Immediately a little light of excitement went off. Perry Mason!!!!!! Della Street!!!!!! I just love that show. My grandmother was the biggest Perry Mason fan on the planet; she drooled over him. That show was on constantly, in reruns, from as long as my memory goes back.

I can show up to dressed in perfect 1950's courtroom attire... a nice wool dress or suit (like the Thanksgiving dress I'm planning to make). Conservative, but not prudish. Serious but feminine. I could even wear a hat and gloves.

This inconvenience suddenly turned into opportunity!

My son was laughing at me. Maybe the hat and gloves would be too much. But then again, why not? No episode of Perry Mason is complete without a courtroom surprise!

Wool Crepe

2009-11-02T18:10:00.004-06:00

What the heck happened to October? Other than finishing my red coat, not a lot of sewing got done in October. We did have fun decorating for Halloween, though. I hope everybody else was sewing away and having fun!

I managed to get half of my sewing room re-organized; the annex portion is still a tip! But at least it was a start and I'll get pictures soon!

Now that it's November, I can move on to two projects using one of my favorite fabrics: wool.

The first project is going to be a dress and jacket ensemble using a gorgeous, embroidered wool crepe. I want to wear it on Thanksgiving. I made a wool blend dress last Thanksgiving and I think I will make this my new Thanksgiving tradition!
The second project is a coat from a to-die-for wool herringbone coating called "Ivy League".

I'll get more pictures soon, but wanted to get posting to get myself in gear!

Oh, the Shame of It!!!!!

2009-10-16T18:15:00.010-05:00

It is with great shame that I am posting pictures of my sewing room and adjacent annex.

Ever since moving last June, I've not really ever managed to get it set up in a way that works and flows well. However, with the latest furniture shifting, I think I this layout may be close.

The sewing annex section (over the garage "bonus room") houses not only sewing stuff, but other craft supplies and all of the vintage jewelery, accessories, games, toys and pop culture things I covet. With no structure in place, it's turned into a dumping ground.

I've made a few efforts over the last several months to sort it out by purchasing little shelves for under my sewing table and long shelving racks on the low/apex walls of the annex section (DH hung those for me).

The whole area is stifling me. I've done nothing this last week because I walk in and don't know where to begin. AND, my fabric haul from Louise's auction isn't even in here! It's been sorted into categories on the big table in my basement until I can wash/treat it and bring it up.

Hopefully these shameful pictures will motivate me into getting my back side in gear. I've just printed off labels for plastic storage bins that need sorting through. I thought that would be a good starting point.

I also need to address lighting, but I'll do that after it's organized.

The Red Twill Coat

2009-10-12T13:42:00.008-05:00

This coat was a mixed bag. Some parts were easy, other parts gave me fits.

I had issues with the topstitching - it was loopy underneath. I adjusted the tension, used a topstitching needle and thread, used cardboard to keep the fabric flat (chunky SA)... it helped a little but still wasn't perfect.

The instructions would have you sew the bodice lining to the fabric. I skipped this because I bagged the lining. It is so much faster. If you've never bagged a lining before or need a refresher, here is a great article in Threads - How to Bag a Lining.

I continued with the construction of the jacket. Next were the sleeves which gave me great fits. I'm not happy with them. I've never had problems with set in sleeves until this coat. There was a huge amount of ease at the sleevecap. I could not for the life of me ease it in without sewing in pleats. It took me three attempts to finally sew it without pleats, but it is still puckered at the top. I think this is due to the twill because when I did this step on the lining (a softer, more pliable fabric), I had no issues. **I'd be interested in anybody's thoughts or experience about this.

The skirt construction was straight forward; more topstitching along the waistline seam. Here I didn't follow the instructions that have you topstitch through the fabric AND lining. I was already having issues due to the thickness so I topstiched before the lining was added. Same issues.The lining was constructed the same as the jacket, then bagged. I understitched all along the top neckline and front edges.

Because of my topstitching issues, I decided to not topstitch along the top, front and bottom edges. The twill provided structure and understitching preventing rolling.The sleeve edges (fabric and lining) were pressed under and slip stitched into place. I blind machine hemmed the lining and hand blind hemmed the coat fabric. I've grown to love hand hemming!!!

Then I made French tacks at the three seams. It was my first attempt at French tacks, which didn't turn out well. I do something weird with thread (and things like appliance cords) and always manage to twist them. (DH curses me when he pulls out the vacuum.) My tacks were more like French twists... or French tangles! Maybe one day I'll redo them...

After that was done, all that was left were the buttonholes and buttons. Thankfully, the end of the project went smoothly! I used fun buttons that blended from black to gray, to add some contrast and interest. I envision wearing the coat with these colors. The buttons will bring outfit and coat together.

This coat has many flaws and imperfections. But I still like it. Projects are funny like that. Sometimes a garment can be perfectly constructed, but it doesn't send you "the love." This coat, on contrast, has issues that I wish it didn't, but I will still wear it and have fun doing so. It's a great style and I love the vintage red twill. DH said that it looks very retro, like something off of the set of Austin Powers. My DS 11 y/o said it's futuristic! I say it's got style either way!

Win a Vintage Pattern!

2009-09-30T10:10:00.008-05:00

I want to thank all of the people who read and follow my blog, read my reviews on PR and those who voted for me in PR's Vintage Pattern Contest earlier this year. I'm humbled that my projects and ramblings are of interest to people when there are so many talented people out there in the blogosphere.

Therefore, as a token of my appreciation, I'm going to conduct a drawing for a vintage pattern. I have a huge stash of vintage patterns acquired from auctions and would like to share them with others who are passionate about vintage.

Here's how it will work:

During the month of October, 2009 sew a project. It doesn't have to be vintage, just made during October.
Post a comment here on my blog that includes a link to your project. I will keep track of the names.
On November 1 (or shortly thereafter), I will put all of the names of those who participated into a (vintage) hat. My son will then draw two names from said hat.
There will be two winners; the prizes will be the patterns pictured below. My son will pick the winner for Pattern #1 first, and Pattern #2 second. It will be completely random as to who wins which pattern.
I will post my email address when the drawing is finished so that the winners can send me their mailing address.

I hope that people will participate! While most of us sew year round, projects have lots of exciting possibilities this time of year with all of the holidays just around the corner!

Thank you for visiting my blog; Happy Sewing!

Pattern #1-Vintage Simplicity 3528: late 50's/early 60's, B32, Partially cut, complete, instructions included

Pattern #2 - McCall's 2619: 1970, B36, factory folded, instructions included.

The Vintage Hat from which the names will be drawn: 100% wool, original price tag still attached, price paid $4.99. Any help dating?

In Memory of a Great Red Coat

2009-09-28T08:23:00.009-05:00

I have/had a great, red wool winter coat. It was calf length with bulky, cuffed sleeves, a high collar and a dramatic drape that went of the left shoulder.

I bought the coat when I was 18 (er, um 1984) and it saw me through numerous winters. When I lived in the Virgin Islands for three years, I stored it at my grandfather's house. When I returned to Chicago and moved downtown in late '92, my beloved coat was reinstated into service.

The coat was warm and cozy with all of its bulk and high collar. And it stood out. On more than one occasion on a snowy-bad weather day (the kind when you and everybody else in Chicago is trying to hail a cab), I had a cabbie tell me he pulled over to me because he saw my red coat! Another time when out do dinner, I overheard a gentlemen at a table say to his friend as I walked by "That woman in the red coat looks like a model." (This was obviously a LONG time ago.) Who wouldn't love a coat that get that generates that type of reaction?

My poor coat did not fare well during my England years. It was damaged by moths, along with other silks and woolens, despite my efforts to protect my closet. I was devastated.

It's been eight or nine years since I discovered the holes and I could never bear to discard my wonderful coat. Maybe if I put it to the side, the moth holes will go away...

Well they haven't; I still have the coat. Maybe I'll be able to reconstruct it or salvage parts of it. It's a mess now, wrinkled, covered in dog hair and lint... I mourn this coat. I will bring it to the dry cleaners and see what I can do.

In the meantime, in honor of the red coat, last week I started a lightweight coat. I need a coat for autumn/spring weather, when there's that bite in the air but it's still too warm for a winter coat.

While looking through my stash, Louise's vibrant red, cotton twill kept jumping out at me. Originally, I wanted to make a trench from it. However, it's a vintage 36" wide and with only 3 yards, there wasn't enough fabric.

So I'm marrying old with new and making a stylish, modern coat from Vogue 8548 with this gorgeous, vintage fabric. I love the bucket collar; the twill should hold the shape well. I'm lining it with flannel back satin.

The coat has a fair amount of topstitching. Thanks to the ladies at PR I received some wonderful advice about which thread, needle, etc. to use. I'm using a heavier, topstitching thread by Gutterman and a topstitching 80/12 needle.

It's progressing well although there is considerable ease in the sleevecap which is giving me some fits. I usually don't have issues with sleeves, but I'm geared up to head to my sewing room and get this coat finished!

Must Have Red Coat!

Update - Me Wearing the Blouse

2009-09-19T18:02:00.003-05:00

DH took some pics of me in the blouse. As lovely as Doris is, it's always nice to see it on the person for whom it was made.

Finally - The Blouse!

2009-09-17T20:53:00.005-05:00

Yep, I finished it last week! With all of the landscaping, back to school activity, etc., DH hasn't had time to take any pictures of me in the blouse.

So I took some pictures this afternoon. The lovely Doris was kind enough to model for me, with the condition that she could hang out by the pool for a while and get some fresh air. It seemed a reasonable request to me. As soon as I get pics of me wearing it, I'll post them!

In the end, I had to cut out some of the armscye, 3/8" from the bottom (at the side seam), taping to the front and back about where the notches sit. Since I didn't have enough fabric to make more bias binding, I just narrow hemmed it. However, I think I may at some point take that out and make neutral/nude bias strips when I pick up an appropriate fabric. I think it will just lay nicer.

Despite this project taking longer than I'd expected, I'm pretty happy with the result. I've got that pretty, feminine blouse that I wanted.

In the meantime, I've been working on my youngest son's Halloween costume, a vampire ensemble. But I've got the bug to sew some autumn or winter vintage garments with some of the gorgeous woolens that were in Louise's haul from the May 23 auction... hmmm, I'll have to rummage a bit.

Just Around the Corner

2009-09-06T15:08:00.007-05:00

Halloween is just around the corner!

I love Halloween and I sew all of the costumes each year for my family.

I also enjoy making decorative items for around the house. Since the pool landscaping has kind of taken over... and I need to make some fitting adjustments to the armscye on my vintage blouse... I thought I'd work on a fun, simple project in between all of the other stuff.

For years I've wanted a Halloween fireplace mantle scarf, but always seem to have run out of time by the time Halloween came around. I even went so far last year as to design and cut out a pattern piece!

So I pulled out the Halloween quilting fabrics from stash. I stored my "pattern" piece with these fabrics and got to work on the mantle scarf. It was so simple and quick once I got going!

I measured the width and depth of the mantle itself, then added extra for the seam allowance. There wasn't enough length to cut the top/bottom pieces in one so there is a center seam. Using one of these pieces as a pattern, I cut a piece of quilting batting. The batting was basted to the bottom fabric.

I then cut two pieces of fabric for each of the large pendants. I sewed them right sides together, leaving the top open to turn... then I pressed each pendant. I alternated an orange pendant (with the witch/cat pattern) with a yellow pendant.

After all of the pendants were sewn, I spaced them out evenly beginning with middle and end one, leaving equal space inbetween each pendant. Then I made the little black pendants using the same fabric as the base pieces. I actually used the tab pattern piece from my vintage blouse, only enlarged it! It was exactly the shape I wanted!

I sewed the little pendants together the same as the large pendants. Then I pinned them in the spaces between the large pendants. Then I basted the pendants in place all the way around.

Finally, I sewed the top and bottom pieces right sides together (being careful to keep pendants away from seams as they were on the inside while doing this step). I left a three inch opening for turning.

Prior to turning right side out I clipped the corner to make sure they pushed out nice and square. Then I simply slip stitched the opening on the back.

After it was finished, I pressed it out.

I love the look of these fabrics together. They have that old fashioned, vintage feel. The fabric with the witch/cat print is at least seven years old and is from Northcott. The black with gold specs may also be Northcott, but I'm not sure. All the fabrics were purchased from a lovely quilt shop in England (when I lived there) called The Bramble Patch, which is in Weedon.

Now that I finally made this, I can hopefully get that darn vintage blouse finished this week!

The Moral of the Story Is...

2009-08-25T12:45:00.004-05:00

...don't sew when you are in a rush.

This is easier said than done and not always realistic. I've said it many times to myself. But do I listen???

The reason I bring this up is that last night, I finally made it back into my sewing room to work on my lovely vintage blouse! Yay! I was trying to get the blouse finished before my MIL came to visit, but despite my best efforts, I ran out of time. You may recall, I had some issues with the neck facings.

After re-acclimating myself to the project and what needed to be done, I merrily set off with my seam ripper to redo the facing seams and the 1/4" hem.

When that was finished, I pinned the facing to the blouse. It still didn't line up. I was determined, however, stretching and easing the darn thing until the facing was in. I then sewed it on.

Well THEN I realized that the front self facing edge overlapped incorrectly at the top edge, when folded back into place. It left a large, exposed wad of folds on the top edge. What did I do wrong?

I was stumped. This blouse is the first button front I've made without a collar. I thought it would be easier! I started to think something was wrong with the instructions, something I've not really (seriously) encountered in a vintage pattern.

However, the light went off when I re-read the directions again. IT WAS ME and I felt an odd sense of relief!!!!! Finally I comprehended what I did wrong.

First, the *mistake* I made before setting this project down last month was not a mistake! The facing seams ARE 5/8"... so I needed to once again redo those seams!! Gah!

Second, I figured out how the front edge/facing seams were done. If I had bothered to pay closer attention to the pattern illustration, I would have seen how the front edge of the neck facing is sewn to the front self facing of the blouse. **A further clue is in the notches on both pieces and that the notches are marked #5 on the tissue pattern pieces (I love vintage patterns!)

Third, after seam #5 is sewn, the front self facing is folded back (right sides together); then the neckline facing and blouse edges all line up nicely. THEN you sew the seam and turn right side out. Voila!

I figured that out last night, but decided to sleep on it before making another gaff.

I'm happy to report that this morning, all of the above steps were executed smoothly, without incident. I then proceeded to clip, press and understitch the facing beautifully into place.

Below are pictures of the instructions and the facing construction prior to sewing.

Remember, don't sew when in a rush!!!!!!

Pattern Grading

2009-08-19T19:21:00.002-05:00

Today while catching up on my sewing and vintage *stuff*, I came across a great article I've seen before in Threads Magazine about pattern grading. It's called Making Sense of Pattern Grading.

Although it wasn't written specifically for vintage use, I think it's particularly relevant to us vintage enthusiasts. If you all are anything like me, you have at least one (or ten or a hundred) awesome patterns that are not your size, but that you just couldn't live without!

So I thought that I'd post a link here to the article on the Threads website for easy reference. You are now liberated - don't let the wrong pattern size stop you ever again!

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4368/making-sense-of-pattern-grading

Trying to Get Organized!

2009-08-18T17:19:00.003-05:00

It's been nutty here the last few weeks! My mother-in-law left yesterday after a two and a half week visit. During this time, I had my family visiting twice to visit MIL, the on-going pool construction, my little guy's birthday and the kids went back to school today.

I'm exhausted!

BUT, the sewing room is calling me. I will get back to my sewing tomorrow or Thursday! I hope everybody has been more productive than I have been!

Stay tuned.

Beautiful Embroidery - Is it Vintage?

2009-08-03T13:59:00.013-05:00

My poor blouse, which I envisioned "whipping" out in a couple of days, is patiently waiting again. I made a mistake on the facing (required 1/4" seams and I made 5/8"...).

THEN my MIL arrived from England on Thursday and will be staying with us until August 17. Combine that with the on-going construction of the pool and, well, there hasn't been much time for sewing.

Nevertheless, MIL is a big fan of auction like DH and myself. So on Saturday we attended a local one and came home with some goodies. I got a box of fabric; overall, it was ho-hum with the exception of a gorgeous fine woolen and a nice piece of silk. There is also a nice length of red, white and blue striped cotton.

But what I really love from this haul are some fine baby garments. I *think* they are vintage and upon researching, I *think* they are Feltman brothers.

The dresses and vests are made from fine voile and batiste with exquisite hand embroidery and teeny-tiny tucks. (Ironic since I'm working on a blouse with tucks!). The baby gowns are from cotton flannel, also with the same high quality hand embroidery. All garments are French seamed. There are two vests, two dresses and five gowns (two pink embroidery and three blue embroidery).

There are labels on only two of the items, the two vests. They say "Hand Made in the Phillippeans Size 1 Year".

I'd be extremely grateful if anybody can play detective and has any idea if these are Feltman Brothers garments and if they can be dated.

I was thinking of selling them, but I've changed my mind. I'm holding on to them for future grandchildren (It really is future: my boys are 8 and 11 !)

Shaping Up

2009-07-24T18:23:00.010-05:00

The blouse is starting to take shape.

Today I finally managed to get into my sewing room for a little while. I sewed the waistline tuck/darts, the bust darts, the back darts and added two darts at the top, back neckline. I also sewed the side and shoulder seams and hemmed the inside edge of the front self-facings.

Because this pattern is a 34B, normally large for me, I pinned the bust darts prior to sewing to check for fit. Often, I have excess just above these darts and below/to the front of my armscyce. I was surprised, however, that this fit well. Could it be my boobs are getting bigger!!!!??? :D :D :D

OK, a girl can hope... obviously it's just the way this pattern runs; I did have the usual excess in the center back which I took out with two darts. I may need to adjust these a bit more tomorrow.

These are the lower back dart/tucks. The small/pointed end starts about 1/2 from the bottom and widens as they go upwards. Then at the top, you pivot 90 degrees and sew to the edge to form a tuck:

The same tucks on the outside give a gorgeous, blousen shape:

This is a lightweight fabric (albeit a bit crisp) with a tiny bit of fraying so I decided to use French seams. I'm really happy with how they worked on this fabric. It's not bulky and presses down nicely.

The center fronts are self facing; I stablized the buttonhole side with fusible interfacing prior to stitching the 1/4" hem and pressing back. You'll notice in the pictures that I hand basted the front fold lines and the buttonholes.

So far, I'm happy with how this is shaping up. DH commented on how pretty it was and that he liked the tucks! I spent a lot of time prior to vacation marking, folding and sewing them so it was nice that he liked the results!

Close up of the front tucks and hand basting:

Hopefully over the weekend I can tweak the back neckline darts, sew the neckline facings, get the tab sewn and cut/sew the bias for the armholes. The buttonholes, buttons and hem will probably be next week.

Also, I hope that when I get final pictures, the true minty-green of the fabric shows! I'll have to get the lighting right!

I hope that nothing goes wrong!

Back from Vacation!

2009-07-19T12:10:00.009-05:00

Yesterday evening, my boys and I returned from Naples, Florida. We made a last minute decision to go on a vacation after there was another delay on the construction of our pool. (Sadly, the contractor's father passed away.)

Since the pool was supposed to be finished by mid-July, we didn't book a vacation this summer, planning to enjoy the pool. So with further delays and a yard that is torn up, I took the boys to Florida for a week. My husband stayed behind as he had to work and look after the contractors.

We had a WONDERFUL time! We stayed right on the beach and did lots of swimming in the Gulf and pool, and went on a tour of The Everglades and took a sunset sail. With virtually no wind, there was actually very little sailing on the sunset sail. But the SPECTACULAR sunset made up for it!

Prior to setting off on our spur of the moment vacation, I did manage to get a few pictures of the blouse and fabric. I'll be catching up on laundry the next day or two, but in between I should be able to progress on this project. I did get all of the tucks sewn before leaving, which was the most time consuming part.

In the first picture, you can see the pattern of the black and white medallions, as well as the loose basketweave. In the second picture, you can see the crispness of the fabric and how wonderfully it works into tucks. It's a spectacular vintage cotton... the color is a luscious mint green, which doesn't show in the pictures. (Hopefully the true color will show in final pics.)

And here is a picture of me on the beach. I made the beach wrap... it's not a vintage pattern, but it was super fast and easy to sew up!

Another Top!

2009-07-09T10:20:00.004-05:00

I realized that I need more of a variety of tops. I seem to have blouses for the fall/winter and then little camisole tops for very casual summer wear... and not much in between.

So last week I started work on a new top from Simplicity 2005. It's from Margie's pattern stash, the lady from the May 2 auction haul.

It's a lovely, classic style with the tucks. I'm using a vintage fabric from Louise's stash, the pattern and fabric haul from the May 23 auction haul. The fabric is a lightweight, mint green fabric. It's light and crisp with a small, 1 cm loose square basketweave every couple of cm's. (I took pictures, but my laptop has issues and I can't download pics on this computer. Stay tuned for fabric and WIP pictures.) I was delighted with how well it washed and ironed!

This fabric needed a pretty pattern. A basic shirt with collar didn't look right. Plus, I had a limited amount of it - 1 1/2 yards and it's 35" wide. I'm making View 2, with the tab.

Yesterday, I finished sewing the tuck and hope to get the darts done today.

I'll post more pictures soon!

The Finished Top

2009-07-01T14:18:00.008-05:00

Here it is! Finished a week ago and waiting patiently for pictures.

The ladies in my sewing group helped me to identify the fabric as cotton twill. Thanks SO MUCH Elaine and Michelle!!!!

The straps were a fiddle, and I didn't get it perfect. But it's wearable and I can live with it.

If this top doesn't say summer fun, I don't know what does!

Taking the Plunge!

2009-06-30T15:13:00.010-05:00

I finished my top - last week!

But I've not taken pictures yet. I've been extremely distracted by the construction of our swimming pool. DH and I toyed with the decision to build a pool for years. I grew up with a pool and have great memories of summers in the pool. Morning til night, I was in that pool most days. My girlfriend and I made up synchronized routines to music. Hence, my love for Esther Williams! I could say that the pool is "for the kids" but I don't think I'd be fooling anybody: I love summer and I love to swim.

So after moving last June and settling in, we decided to take the plunge this year - literally. Last week, the excavator rolled in. It dug the hole... then the skid steer moved all of the soil into the trucks that took it away.

There was lots of activity, lots of construction workers and temps were in the 90's. (I think they got sick of me running outside offering soda, drinks, snacks and freeze pops in order to keep away dehydration.) Then a nasty thunderstorm rolled through on Saturday night and promptly dumped water into our beautifully dug hole! (All the workers kept commenting on what a beautiful hole we had.) Pumping out the water only worked to a point, then it became sludge which is now being bucketed up by hand.

So not much sewing has been accomplished since finishing my top. I did, however, have my sewing friends around yesterday for a sewing day. We had a great day catching up, working on projects and planning future ones. I always have so much fun! I'm lucky to have these great ladies in which to share my hobby.

Here are a few pictures of "the kid's swimming pool". And I PROMISE to have pictures of my top tomorrow!

Mad Housewife

2009-06-23T16:30:00.003-05:00

When Mad Men meets Desperate Housewifes, you get....

....WINE!

That's right! On Sunday we stopped at a local wine shop to get some special beverages for DH to celebrate Father's Day.

DH found exactly what he wanted for himself. Then, I heard him say to me "Hey, this is perfect for you!"

I turned to look at what he was talking about. There on the shelf was a label of wine I'd not seen before! I thought it was hilarous and at $7 a bottle, I thought "What the heck? I'll give it a try."

I've not tried it yet and don't care if it turns out to be bad. I've consumed plenty of plonk in my day and don't expect a lot for the price. But the illustration on the label is good for a chuckle and has plenty of appeal for us vintage loving ladies.

As for sewing, I finished my top this afternoon. I got sidetracked with the construction that is going on with our pool. I'll be sure to get pictures of it tomorrow!

In the meantime: Cheers!

Fitting the Top

2009-06-16T12:33:00.006-05:00

This little number is requiring a fair amount of fiddling around to get the fit right. It would just be wrong if the fit is botched.

After a quick measurement prior to cutting, I realized that this top would be too small at the sides. I added extra that would be needed by placing the front and back pattern pieces 1/4" away from the fold (both pieces are placed on the fold and the top has a side zip). Generally, this worked well except for gaping at the top front. To rectify this, I moved over the front side seam by about 1/2", tapering to the top bust dart (I left the back alone since the fit there was good)...

...did you notice how cute this top is with two, parallel bust darts? I LOVE the shaping on this top. You can see how it nearly stands on its own simply by sewing in all of the darts!

Anyway, back to the fitting. (Detailing excites me!) Taking in the front side seam above the darts worked. But the straps were SERIOUSLY long. I'm used to shortening straps on most everything I make with straps. These were longer than usual, though... especially for something with a 32B. Am I that short over my shoulders? I adjusted the strap by 1/2" in the back, where the straps meet in a "V". It needed a lot more however, so I adjusted the remaining 1 1/2" or so in the front! I also shifted the straps towards the center front by about 1/2", to accommodate the changes made at the side seam.
The top is lined with a "short" lining. This is fine for my fabric, since it is quite thick. But if you were using a lightweight fabric, I'd recommend a full lining.

I had a white, 55/45% linen/cotton blend in my stash which I'm using for the lining. It's nice and lightweight and will breath on those hot summer days. It's cut from the same front and back pieces, only shorter.

The same adjustment were made to the side seam. Now that fitting is sorted out and the straps are adjusted, I can put it all together. Hopefully, this will be finished tomorrow or Thursday!

Tutti Fruity Cutie Top

2009-06-08T15:59:00.005-05:00

The May 25 Auction that DH attended included a haul of fabric. I've posted pictures of some of this fabric. Much of it is in 2-4 yards length, uncut.

Other pieces are leftovers that the lady apparently deemed too big to throw away. I'm really glad about that!

I fell in love with such a piece of cotton. It's white with large, quarter sized colorful dots! If you look closely, some of the dots are purple. It's actually much more vibrant that the picture turned out. The cotton is a good weight with ribs in it. However, it is NOT a knit. This fabric has a vintage feel to me. Maybe it's wishful thinking! I'd really like to get other's opinions on dating it since I'm not an expert on that. What do you think?

I have an awkward shape to work with: It's 38 inches, selvage to selvage. There is a full selvage to selvage section that is a mere 21 inches long... then there's a long (attached) strip (where it was cut) that runs over 30 inches and is about 17 inches wide (along one selvage edge).

I immediately had this fabric in mind for a vintage, summer top. The white was a bit yellowed, but it washed up beautifully. While not "pristine" white, the yellowish tinge definitely is gone. In the same auction where this fabric came from, was a great haul of patterns. Many of them are 50's summer tops.

So I pulled out a couple of them hoping that I could squeeze something out. Butterick 8207 looked like it would work. I particularly like View A - with the criss-cross back. After playing around a bit with some creative folding of the fabric for layout, I discovered that I will indeed be able to make this!!! The only thing is that I will have to cut the bow in a different fabric. That piece is cut on the bias and there is not enough. But that's OK - I think the bow will look great and will pop in a bright, contrast fabric!

I can't wait to start this top!

More Auctions!

2009-06-03T09:11:00.022-05:00

DH and I both love auctions! Probably a bit too much for our own good!

There are lots of reasons we like to go to them: to look for treasures, to recycle rather than buy new, to people watch... Perhaps for some people sitting through hours of "junk" being auctioned off doesn't make for an exciting day. But for us, we love watching people and seeing what items they are after.

On May 25, DH went to an auction on his own and he came back with four bags of fabric and over 500 vintage patterns! The patterns range in age from the 50's through the 70's. I've kept the ones that interest me and have started selling off others.

Patterns - Some of the Keepers:

Polished Cotton:Cotton:
Wools:

The rest of the patterns/fabric that I'm keeping can be seen here: http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n16/TheOldSchool_2006/Vintage%20Patterns%20Fabric%20May23%20Auction/

On Saturday, May 30, we attended one together. The poor boys got dragged along, but they came away with items for themselves so it wasn't all bad!

The people watching was good. There were the Dealer Guys who were social butterflies, talking to everybody while waiting for whatever items they were after to come up. I suppose they see lots of the same folks who all frequent the auctions as they were all chummy. There was Stamp Collector Guy who snapped up four lots of stamps. There were two Quilt Ladies who bid against each other over five or six quilts. Jewelery Woman knew exactly what she was looking for as she big ferociously on some lots and turned her nose up at others.

There was a nice couple sitting behind us who brought books and needlework to pass the time. I thought that they must have been waiting to bid on something in particular. However, after sitting by each other for a few hours, we started talking. They just attend the auctions as a day's activity because they enjoy watching everything and everyone. So I'm not alone!

We picked up oil lamps, a stop watch, a desk lamp, an egg-in-a-nest salt & pepper shaker, a 1968 model 915 Fisher Price Little People Play Barn (I had one as a kid), a thermometer, a lot of 35 ladies' glove and....

...the item for which we attended. My prize: a 1951/52 Singer Featherweight with Centennial Medallion!!! It is complete with carrying case, accessories, original oil can, instruction manual and a Singer buttonholer attachment! There were four other people bidding on it. It was all very exciting! Two were definitely dealers but I'm not sure about the other person. I outbid them all! muah hahahaha!!!! For the wonderful price of $240 !!!

So I wonder who I am to everybody else? Vintage Sewing Machine Lady?

The machine is just beautiful to look at. It's in very good condition and needs some of the dust and crud on the exterior to be cleaned. The platform shows some wear and abrasion but the gold decals are in good shape with very little rubbing off. It runs, although I've not yet threaded it to see if it has any issues. It runs so quietly!

It's been a crazy week with school ending and baseball starting. My little guy's first game got rained out on Monday (so we went out for a consolitory ice cream). But I'm hoping that I'll be able to start cleaning it this weekend so that I can give it a test run!

If you've ever thought about attending an auction, I highly recommend it!

Summer Sizzle

2009-05-31T14:08:00.016-05:00

I finished my dress on Thursday. Overall, I'm really pleased with the outcome! It would be nice if my figure was more like the lady on the illustration, but I'm not prepared to wear excrutiating undergarments to achieve that look! And I like food too much!

Anyway, I think the fabric works well with the style. In particular, I love the sizzling vermillion red.

As for the construction, it was very straightforward and easy. Here's how the rest of it went:

When the front facing is attached to the front bodice, the straps form tubes which need to be turned after stitching. Again, there are no instructions for understitching. I like understitching - a lot. It gives edges a crisp line and prevents rolling. It would be impossible to understitch after the center front and the side front stitching was done on the front bodice. So I seamed the side front, then understitched prior to stitched the center front. After the front facing is attached, the straps are basted to the bodice back. I already shortened the straps an inch and checked the length again prior to stitching the facing at the top seam.I noted above that I don't like how the facings were assembled. They had to be seamed as one with the side seam. But I believe this is necessary because of the criss-cross front straps assembly. Just be prepared for a bit of a fiddle - if you take the time, it will turn out. After the seams are sewn, the facings are tacked down at the side seams.

The skirt construction is straight forward. Front released darts and back darts are sewn. I changed the front darts. I didn't like how the release faced out TO THE SIDES instead of in to the center front. I checked many, many of my other vintage patterns with slim skirts and all of the released darts face in to the center... If the instructions are followed, the outward facing released darts make the skirt pouf in the center front. So I made the released darts on the inside of skirt so that they faced the way I wanted! This is strictly my personal choice; another sewer may like it the way it is designed.

The next step was making the pleat in the center back. The seam is stitched along the pleat extension and is also basted just below the center back zipper opening along the pleat line. Then it is stitched again from the zipper opening to a dot, about 2/3 of the way down. The basting from the dot to bottom edge keeps the pleat in alignment with the center back seam during construction and pressing. It is removed later, although the instructions don't tell you to do this!! Press the pleats well for crisp, well defined pleat.After the sides are seamed the skirt is attached to the waistline which is very straight forward.I used an invisible zipper for the center back. I ALWAYS stablize the zipper opening with one inch strips of fusible interfacing to prevent bubbling.

For the hook and eye, I salvaged a silver pair (all the ones in my stash are black) from a bad 70's polyester dress that was in the auction fabric haul! TIP: When sewing the hook in place, to keep it steady and in the position you want, sew a couple of stitches around the hook neck. This way, it won't shift and fall when sewing though the holes.

The dress was then ready for hemming. I hemmed by straight stitching 1 1/2 inch from the bottom, then pressing up. I used lace hem tape and hand stitched the hem with a blind catch stitch. If you've never hemmed with a pleat before, don't worry - it's easy. The pleat is spread out flat and the seam allowance is clipped to the stitching where the top edge of the hem hits. Re-fold the pleat and press back into shape. *TIP - do an edgestitch on the folded edge of pleat which will always keep the pleat well formed.

Finally was the belt construction. This was also very straightforward. This is a GREAT belt as it is curved and follows the shape of the back/behind. It's SOOOO flattering as it lays beautifully, much nicer than a belt that is a straight strip. I used a wooden buckle, salvaged from the same bad 70's polyester dress ... I used fusible interfacing again instead of sew on, and after turning, I added edgestitching all around the belt. I think ig helps the belt keep it's shape and makes it more professional looking.

That was it! I just love, love, LOVE this dress. It amazes me how COMFORTABLE it is, despite the fitted design! My 11 y/o son said "It's one of your better ones Mom."I can see this dress made from many fabrics. I made mine as a summer sun dress. It is my 43rd birthday on Saturday and I plan to wear it to a restaurant where we can dine outdoors. But it would be equally beautiful in a shantung, crepe or other evening fabric for a fine cocktail dress.

This dress sizzles!

On to the Business of Dresses

2009-05-28T08:15:00.006-05:00

I enjoyed sewing my apron. It was a fun project. I like projects that give my brain a "rest" after a bigger or more complicated project. My true love, however, is dresses (and costumes). I use the time during the in between projects to conceptualize my next project or two or ten.

I started a new dress a couple of days ago. It's a late 50's mail order pattern that was in last weekend's auction haul. It was still in its original mailing envelope from The Corn Belt Dailies. I couldn't believe my good fortune, not only on the entire lot, but on this pattern in particular. It's one that I'd bid on before and lost. So, despite my very long list of patterns to be sewn "next", this one trumped them all and went straight to the top.

I'm using a cotton that's been in my stash for almost two years. It's a vibrant, hot red with a leaf design that has some gold highlights. I always envisioned it made up in a slim-styled, hubba-hubba dress - the kind you'd wear to a Luau or pool party. (Note: I personally don't have the 50's bustline that produces true hubba. It doesn't stop me from enjoying the styles though!)

It is a size 14, 34B-26W-36H. Normally 34B is much too large for me and I have to alter to remove excess fabric that gapes along the center back and high bust areas. This pattern, though, seems to run smaller than usual for this era... After a tissue fit, I determined that I didn't need to cut the bust/back areas smaller. Any tweaks could be done from cutting as is. I shortened the shoulder straps by one inch, and added an inch to both the waist and hips.

The fabric is easy and a pleasure to sew; it hardly frays. I'm finishing the seams simply by pinking. Here's the inside of the bodice; the straps criss-cross in the front and then go straight down the back and attach to the back bodice.

It's a very straightforward construction and is going together well. I've added some understitching along the front and back facings to prevent rolling. The instructions didn't include this step and I'm not always sure on these vintage patterns if it's assumed that you know you should do this... regardless, I often add understitching because I like the clean, straight edge it gives.

The dress is nearly finished. I just need to add the zipper, which happens to be a center back on this pattern. Then it's just the hem and the belt. I tried it on yesterday after attaching the skirt, hoping all of the fitting adjustments worked. I'm really happy so far and can't wait for it to be finished!

2009-05-25T14:05:00.010-05:00

I'm thrilled to have finished my apron!

It was kind of a busy week with school winding down. Also, we finalized plans and signed a contract this week to have pool built! I'm really excited about that!

Finally, we had another huge haul of vintage patterns and fabric from an auction on Saturday. DH went and brought back TONS of stuff for me! I'm in the process of sorting and documenting it all and will post here about it soon.

But back to the project at hand, my apron. I love this apron. It's such a good feeling when something turns exactly how it was envisioned! The fabric really is what makes it. The one "embellishment" that I took the liberty of doing was the applique flowers on the pockets. After fusing them on, I used a very narrow zig zag over the top of the existing embroidery work. I chose this rather than a satin stitch because it matched the flower's stitching more closely.

Since I was home by myself, Doris said she'd gladly model the apron for me. Here she is in the kitchen. DH said, though, that she's kind of useless because she never cooks anything! Who needs to cook when you look as good as she does?

Creative Apronry

2009-05-18T12:44:00.010-05:00

I that think you are either an apron person, or you are not.

I firmly fall into the "I am" category. My latest project is a 1950's apron. It has four varions.

It's easy to assume that I bought it for the full, bib style, which is very eye catching. But I didn't. I *will* make that one eventually, but it was View 3, the one with the overlapping pockets, that caught my fancy.

The fabrics that I'm using have been in my stash for a couple of years. One of them is an ivory cotton/linen blend with periwinkle blue embroidered flowers. The other is a 100% linen periwinkle. I originally bought the solid linen then grabbed the ivory some time later when I saw it. The embroidered blue flowers were a great match for plain, blue linen. I would have passed it by otherwise.

It was alway my intention that these two fabrics be used together; however, on what has eluded me... until I saw this pattern. The ivory fabric was made with a border along the bottom edge, just perfect for an apron!

In the spirit of creative apronry (I think I've invented a word), I'm attempting to make it more interesting. I'll use the blue linen for the pockets, waistband and ties. The overlapping pockets are a fun feature, but on their own, they are kind of boring. I'm going to embellish them by making an applique from the flowers on the ivory pocket.

Making an applique isn't difficult, it just takes a little extra time. First, I cut out a square with the flowers in the middle. They were then fused onto paper-back, two sided interfacing. After fusing, the paper is left on and cut around the design. I will then peel off the paper and fuse it onto the pocket, then stitch in place.

However, before attaching the appliques, I wanted to be sure the placement was right. So I stitched the top facing down and sewed the bias tape around the pockets' edges.

I conveniently had matching double fold bias tape. (At one point I was going to make a Renaissance outfit from this fabric...) With the curve of the pockets, I took my time to assure that the bias tape was sewn on evenly and smoothly.

Getting bias tape to lay smoothly around curves isn't difficult. It's what it's supposed to do, but can be frustrating if you've not done it before. All you need to do is work a little bit at a time and press as you go.

Starting at the top edge, place the fabric inside the tape so that it hits the fold. Pin. Move ahead and repeat. As you come to the curve, work a little ahead so that the tape is distributed evenly around the curve.

Use the tip of your iron and press a tiny bit at a time, working from the outside in. Any puckers will smooth out. That's the beauty of bias tape. Then pin in place. Don't be afraid to use as many pins needed to keep the curve flat and the fabric in place.

Work all the way around then you're ready sew! After sewing, go back and press again. Voila!

I hope that this apron turns out nicely. Ladies back in the day took pride in their aprons. I want mine to do them justice. Fingers crossed!

The Resurrection: As I Tiptoe Back into my Blog...

2009-05-16T13:24:00.012-05:00

...I hope that I'm not in for a stoning!

Firstly, I must say that I feel bad, exceptionally bad, that I've not posted here in almost a year! I don't want to make excuses, but here's my best shot at one:

After we moved in our new house last June, I got a bit overwhelmed. Shortly after we were in, I had some dear friends come in from New Jersey for a visit. I was THRILLED, and dropped sewing to finish unpacking and get ready for my first guests in our new home.

THEN, a week later, we headed out to vacation in Portland.

THEN, five days later, the boys started at their new school.

THEN, we became Cub Scout den leaders because nobody else would do it.

THEN, my little brother came for a five day visit.

THEN, the day after he left, my mother-in-law from England came in for a two week visit.

THEN, it was Halloween (a big deal in my house).

THEN, I was dead from said mother-in-law visit. By the time I recovered, it was time for my family and our neighbors to come over for Thanksgiving.

THEN, it was the Christmas and holiday season...

...so by the time the New Year came and went, I didn't know what hit me and I lost complete momentum for my blog. I was sewing in between all of this, and on a few occasions, started to write a post. But I always felt rushed and that my writing was not well done, so I scrapped it and never posted.

I'm so sorry...

BUT, I now feel that life's pace has found itself nearly a year on... so I hope that you'll still stick around with me. I promise I won't go anywhere this time.

So to kick off The Resurrection, I thought I'd post about a new endeavor of mine: Auctions.

Auctions are a great place to hang out if you are a vintage/antique/retro junkie like me (and my husband). Earlier this month, we went to one and to my delight, I picked up over 300 vintage patterns! Most were ladies' dresses from the 30's - 80's, plus a vast batch of children's from the 50's. There were also gadgets like a 1940's Singer Buttonholer. The whole shebang cost $15.50.

It's amazing what you can tell from a person's life just from their sewing stash. This lady was married in the 40's and originally lived in Wisconsin. Her oldest 40's mail order patterns were addressed to her there. While the haul didn't include any super glam ball gowns, there are many smart suits and dresses. She definitely was well dressed.

She moved to central Illinois by the early 50's and that's the timeframe of her maternity and baby/toddler patterns. She had at least one each, a boy and girl, as there are children's patterns for both. Of course, there are FAR more girl's patterns than boy's! But she sewed for them a LOT as there are many, many children's patterns. There are also doll clothes patterns.

Most of the mid 60's - 70's patterns are a larger bust size than the 40's and 50's patterns, about the time her daughter(s) would have been teenagers/young women. They are also the youthful, hip styles from that time.

In amongst the sewing gadgets and supplies, were her husband's business cards and stationery on which she wrote notes and equated alterations/yardages. He was a local insurance broker.

I was captivated by this haul. The first day I had it home, I mulled through it for hours and hours. It really captured a small snapshot of a woman and her family's life.

I've begun taking pictures and have uploaded the first 57, from the late 50's through the early 60's. I've included a link to my photobucket album and have uploaded a few of my favorites.

http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n16/TheOldSchool_2006/VintagePatternsMay2_Auction/?start=0

Enjoy!

On another humble note: Thanks to everybody who voted for me in PR's Vintage Pattern Contest. I was both surprised and thrilled to win First Place, given the amount of talent shown in the contest. The votes coming from my fellow sewers means a great deal to me indeed!

Oh, and that knit dress in my last post??? It was a big, fat WADDER!!! I rushed sewing when there was so much to do, that it never turned out! At least I know how to call a wadder and move on!

The Knit Dress

2008-06-19T09:54:00.002-05:00

I made really great progress on this dress for two days! Taking a break from the unpacking and hoo ha was just what I needed.

I sped along through the pattern and nearly finished it. The only thing remaining were the armhole and skirt hems.... then the organizing bug hit again!

I'm not really liking the dress. It fits well and the knit was easier to work with than I anticipating. The problem for me is the style vs. my figure.

It's much more of an empire-y waist than I thought from the pictures on the envelopes. I thought the slant of the midriff would come down the sides to my waist. However, they are much higher.

That combined with the gathering in the front makes the dress hang rather unflattering on me. It feels like a maternity dress, which quite frankly gave me flashbacks and sent me into a cold sweat!

I'm pear shaped. While the free skirt is good for hiding my generous hips, I like to accentuate my waist and flat stomach. So I now have a dress that shows off (oh boy!) my small boobs, hides my one good feature (my waist) and does nothing one way or another for the hips. This design is just not suited to me.

Having said all of that, it is a well drafted pattern and was easy to sew. The directions are clear and if your figure type likes this style, I'd highly recommend it.

I'll post pictures in the next day or so... In the meantime, I've resumed "getting-the-house-in-order" duties.

Knit Wit

2008-06-11T16:49:00.008-05:00

My sewing room is semi-finished: The main area is basically ready. The extra area looks like a disaster zone. But it was good enough for me to get in there and fire up the machine.

Two days before the packers came, I prepped and cut a pattern. One of my goals this year was to try knits. Apart from the anti-fabric Catwoman costume and some knit velour for a costume, I've never worked with knit... Also, I've only ever made two garments that weren't a costume or vintage (pajamas for my son and a shirt for my husband).

So in a recent pattern sale, I picked up Vogue 8489 to use with some knit I picked up on sale at JoAnn's on clearance. I'm not a pink person, but I liked the muted tones, batik background and brown paisley pattern. The design looks like it can a large print.

I'm hoping this project will get my sewing mojo going. Since knits are new to me, this pattern hopefully won't be too complex. There are two reviews on PR and both are favorable. I've progressed a bit today and the only problem I had was that the bottom layer of fabric got swallowed in the feed dogs on a few occasions when starting off... I'm using a three step zig-zag set rather narrow. The seams so far look nice.

This project will probably be one of those that either turns out really, really well or will look positively hideous. It just doesn't seem have "OK" written on it! We'll see what tomorrow brings!

We're In!

2008-06-10T09:09:00.002-05:00

Yes, that's right! We're in the new house!

Thanks for all of your kind comments. Overall, the move went well. There were a few little *things* like the screws for my son's bed disappeared, a few light scratches turned up on the kitchen dresser and the hot tub tipped and fell on the inside of the truck after it was loaded. The relo company will send a furniture guy out to patch up the dresser. The fact that all of the china, crystal, kitchenware, antiques etc. made it in tact is amazing.

The super-duper great news is that we sold our Chicagoland house in the final hour. People wanted to get in (really get in) the day we vacated. The showing was set for 7:00 p.m. We finished vacuuming and cleaning out the sinks then locked the door behind us for the final time at 6:55. The offer came in the next morning and after relo and buyers negotiated for a day, a deal was made. This means we not only got our buyout price but a 2% selling bonus.

We were stunned and felt sooooo lucky.

On this end I've been plugging away at getting things organized. I don't want to just shove things into closet and cupboards. I did that at the last house and it never got done properly. This time, I'm taking my time.

Last night I was surprised when my little brother and his buddy from work stopped by. I knew he travels to this area a few times every quarter so it was nice for the visit.

The kitchen, sunroom, dining room and both boys' bedrooms are sorted out. Today's task is...... THE SEWING ANNEX !

I know I won't get it all done. But if I can at least get the main area complete, all systems will be GO! And I'm ready to GO!

Thanks again for all of your kind wishes!

The Invasion

2008-05-26T19:02:00.002-05:00

The movers invade tomorrow and start packing us up. I'm so excited! This has been in the works since October and I'm thrilled that it is finally happening!

Sewing and my projects has kept me sane. There has been much to do and many details to sort out. And I'm a worrier. I even worry about the fact that I worry too much! Sewing has kept my mind occupied and has helped to pass the time.

I'll have email access for another week, but my online time is likely to be sporadic. I have many of your blogs to catch up on, and I will definitely do that once I'm settled in or need a break from the hoo-ha. Rest assured, my low activity at the moment is not due to lack of interest.

Now, up to my sewing room to finish packing all of my things that are NOT being handled by the movers.

Vintage Jewelry

2008-05-25T10:33:00.007-05:00

Vintage jewelry and accessories are part of the territory when you love vintage clothing.

Ladies of the day certainly knew how to pull an ensemble together. Whenever I hit garage sales or the local Goodwill, I look for jewelry (amongst other things). On the list are pins, scarf clips, bracelets and in particular, clip on earrings.

I suppose I have an affinity for the earrings because when I was a girl, my grandmother had an old fabric jewelry box filled with costume jewelry. No doubt, it wasn't expensive stuff. It was mostly from the 50's and 60's, the kind of jewelry that dripped with beads, faux pearls and sequins. The majority of her collection was earrings.

Unfortunately, I don't know what ever became of her jewelry. It's likely that my grandfather gave it to charity, the Disabled American Vets, when clearing through her things some years after she died. At least it went to a good cause.

So when I buy vintage or vintage-like jewelry, it's no surprise that I go for the stuff that looks like the items from my grandmother's collection. Here are some of the things I've picked up along the way.

Have a happy and safe Memorial Day weekend; a heartfelt and respectful thanks to those who died in the line of duty. You will never be forgotten.

The Dress is Finished

2008-05-19T08:18:00.010-05:00

I've finished, been photographed by my official photographer (my husband) and got my PR review written and submitted into the Vintage Contest.

The more I work with vintage patterns, the more I love them. Not only is the attention to styling and fit superb, but in my experience with them, they sew together so well. Feel free to read my full review on PR.

This Week's Work

2008-05-17T20:03:00.011-05:00

I'm lumping a lot into one post. I've been on a mission this week to complete the project, taking lots of pictures. But by the end of the day after the kids were in bed, I was just too tired to post. Be alerted: this is a long post!

The collar and cuffs are made from the dot dress fabric. Initially, I had some concerns about how the slightly stiff but lightweight fabric would handle the curves. I didn't need to worry, it sewed up beautifully. For the collar, I made the facing piece out of the linen/silk jacket fabric and used fusible interfacing. For the cuffs, both the fabric and the facing piece were the dot fabric and again, I used fusible interfacing for the facing piece.

After seaming the two collar pieces around the outside edge, I pinked the seams. It was easy to press the seams out prior to turning. The pattern didn't call for understiching. Even though the dot fabric pressed out nicely, I wanted the collar to keep it shape so I understitched anyway. When I pressed the finished collar flat, I was pleased with the smoothness of the curves.

Attaching the collar to the jacket was straight forward. Everything lined up perfectly and there wasn't any fussing to ease at the back neckline. After seaming, I graded the layers when trimming, longest layer being the one closest to the garment.

The next step was constructing and attaching the facings. The front facings were attached to the back neck, the middle back was attached to the back sides, which were attached to the side of the fronts! It was one big loop and I had to keep checking to make sure I'd sewn them together properly!

The pattern didn't call for finishing the edges of the facing that would be attached to the lining. I gave them a quick zig zag...

Then I constructed the cuffs. As with the collar, there were no instructions to understitch after the cuff and facing were seamed on the outer edge. After trimming and pressing out, I understiched the facing side.

For attaching the cuffs, the instructions called for the jacket sleeve to be sandwiched between the cuff layers, kind of like cuffs on a shirt. Because the lining would be pressed under and slipstiched, I sewed them on right sides together instead, then turned and pressed the seams up towards the sleeve . I understitched AGAIN on the sleeve.

After this, I did the buttonholes. It was during this that I had a mishap that I'll call The Blue Chalk Incident. It was my Token Project Incident, which I have come to expect with every project. In fact, until said incident occurs in any given project, I get uneasy, feeling that my project will spontaneously burst into flames. Once the Token Project Incident has taken place, I feel as though order has been restored in my sewing universe. Said project has survived and I can carry on to completion.

I was hesitant to use blue chalk because I didn't want it to stain the ivory linen/silk. Against my better judgment, I used a wee bit to lightly mark the lines of my buttonholes... well, I don't really want to relive this so the basic story is that after marking the lines, my phone rang. In a rush to answer the phone, I placed the chalk down on top of the jacket (cringe)... It just so happened I bought a new iron and my old iron was sitting on my cutting table next to where the jacket lay. In the haste to grab the ringing phone, my hand knocked over the iron right on top of the chalk, which broke into many pieces, leaving blue marks all over the front of my jacket.

I nearly cried, realizing that I'd have to wash the whole thing. So that ended my sewing for the day. After washing the jacket (and yes, the blue chalk came out) it lined dried over night. What a buzz kill!

Then I had to iron and press the whole thing out the next day. This set me back time wise, but as far as mishaps go, I was thankful the jacket wasn't ruined. By the time I finished pressing, I had fully recovered from the Blue Chalk Incident and moved on to the lining, after tacking the facings in place.

Although the instructions called for the entire lining to be hand slip stitched on, I machine stitched it in along the fronts, between the top of the darts, and around the back neck edge. This was so much quicker and efficient. I then slip stitched the sleeve linings.

After the sleeves, I pinned the bottom lining edge in place. I treated it a bit like a hem, measuring from the bottom of the jacket up. I wanted to avoid pulling and puckering from an uneven lining.

Almost finally, I decided to make matching covered buttons out of the dot fabric. I had two packs of covered buttons lurking my stash and when I read the instructions, I saw the easiest pattern EVER! The button pattern provided on the packaging is a circle that says "Button Pattern". I thought that was hilarious! Having said that, I was thankful that they took the guesswork of what size to cut.

Because the dot fabric was thin, I interfaced the circles with fusible... Four dots fit perfectly on the front of each button. I just needed to be mindful of placement so that they were all uniform when complete.

I got the buttons sewn on right before dinner. I still need to sew on the snap and that's it! For all practical purposes, it's finished!

Overall, I'm pretty happy with this project. The only thing I wish was a bit different was the ironability of the linen/silk. It is difficult, and nearly impossible, to get some creases to press out, much more so than pure linen.

Nevertheless, the end result is nice. I'll get pictures tomorrow, post them and then write up the review on PR for the Vintage Contest.

On to the Jacket

2008-05-12T08:45:00.012-05:00

I hope that everybody had a wonderful Mother's Day! I sure did! Apart from getting lots of sewing in, yesterday my husband and boys cooked breakfast and kept bringing me coffee refills! When all of that caffeine kicked in, I was a sewing mad woman!

I got the dress completed. Thanks for all of the wonderful comments about the crochet edging. It's triggered my crocheting bug a bit and I hope to do more of it for decorative trim work. Paula, I've posted a pic of the pattern book from which I got this design. It's #38.

The thing about these 50's dresses with ginormous skirts is that they require a bit of management. For my skirt management, I stack plastic storage boxes beside my sewing table. This gives extra surface area and prevents the weight of the garment from sliding off of the table and pulling while sewing.

By adding the skirt lining, There was even more weight. I always try to keep my garments as smooth as possible while sewing. Admittedly, I'm slow. I frequently stop and adjust to prevent the garment from twisting and becoming distorted. By doing this, I find that I can sew straighter because the garment lays better. I don't mind that I sew slowly. My priority is try to sew as accurately and straight as possible. Results vary depending upon fabric and design!

After finishing the dress, I moved on to the jacket. The ivory linen/silk blend fabric arrived from Thai Silks on Friday. It's nice stuff! I can't decide if it behaves more like a linen or a silk. It's a bit stiff. This could be good for the structure required for a jacket; I just hope it doesn't end up being too much like cardboard. I'm also thinking about what the appropriate interfacing should be.

I did a quick measure of the jacket pieces and held it against myself to check if any adjustments needed to be made. It appeared a bit big through the back shoulders. I've had this issue before. On dresses with straps or a halter, shortening the straps or neckline pulls takes out the extra room. It's a minor adjustment and I'm not sure if this means I have a sway back, square shoulders or just a small bustline in comparison to my waist and hips (well, I know I do... but is here more to it?).

So I consulted my book "The Perfect Fit" to see what I should do about the back shoulder area. I don't want to add darts to the top of the jacket. The book described how to take out excess by pinching a pleat into the pattern piece prior to cutting. I used this method.

Because the color is a light ivory, I used tailor tacks to mark the darts. I didn't want chalk to stain the fabric.

The pattern has both a lined and unlined version for the jacket. I really don't like unlined jackets. I went to my stash to see what I could use for the lining. Because this is a summer dress and all of the fabrics thus far are 100% natural fibers, I wanted a natural lining as well. What is worse than having synthetic lining sticking to your body on hot day? Blech!

It just so happens that I have ten yards of ivory dupioni (54" wide bolt) lurking in my closet. The color was a perfect match; I didn't want a darker color to show through the jacket.

My goal for the day was to sew all of the darts for both the jacket and the lining. There were twelve in total: two verticals at back waistline, two verticals at front waistline and two antled ones at the bustline. I then seamed the jacket at the shoulders and the side.

I tried it on to check fit. To be honest, it was hard for me to tell. The front obviously flops around and when I tug it here and there to get it in the right places, the position of my arms distorts other areas. Good ole Doris isn't quite my exact double, especially through the back. However, after trying on myself and Doris, it doesn't seem to be far off.

Next comes the fun part of interfacing, collar, etc. which I hope to accomplish today! Hopefully, there will be few interruptions.

Edging and Lace

2008-05-09T10:23:00.005-05:00

After attaching the skirt to the bodice, I decided I wanted to put lace on the bottom of the skirt lining. I only had one white lace in my stash and it had a gathered edge. It just didn't speak to me.

So I decided that I would crochet the edging instead. My grandmother, who raised me, taught me to crochet when I was a little girl. She made lots of household things like those dolls with the big dresses to cover tissue boxes, pot holders and dishtowel embellishments that would allow a dishtowel to hang from kitchen cabinet handles. It was the 70's so most of these items were done in various groovy shades of brown, orange and yellow. She also made lots and lots of afghans.

I first was taught around the age of 6, starting off with long, long, LONG chains. It was good practice and helped me get the hang of holding the needle and using my fingers for tension. Eventually, I progressed to curly bookworm bookmarks and then started little afghans of my own.

Years ago, I started a big afghan out of a gorgeous wool blend yarn. I stopped when there were only about 15 or 20 rows left. It sat untouched for several years and I actually finished it when I sailed across the Atlantic in 1992. There's a lot of time at sea and not only was it a good use of that spare time to finish it, but also the afghan kept me warm on many a cold, wet night mid-Atlantic.

Like my sewing, crocheting went by the by for many years, replaced by the pursuit of more adventurous activities during my 20's. However, after my oldest son was born (who is now 10), I decided to crochet the Christening gown. Many folks thought I was mad to christen a boy in a gown, but I didn't care. My grandfather and brother were christened in a gown and I wanted to keep our family tradition, regardless if it was old fashioned.

After the gown, I picked up various books for making ornaments, tablecloths and edgings, and whenever I see a nice crochet yarn on sale that I like, I get it. My stash goes beyond fabric and sewing patterns!

I looked through my edging pattern book "Fifty Beautiful Edgings" and chose the one I thought suited my dress best. While the dress was hanging for the skirt to drop, I spent the last two days crocheting 118" of edging. It actually was good to do. I had a realtor tour on Wednesday so it was nice to kick my feet up for a while when realtors were coming in my house throughout the day.

Before I sew the hem and edging, I need to tweak one little section of the gathers on the skirt/bodice seam. I don't like the way it hangs - there's a goofy little pucker - so I'll adjust it. You know how that is - it would bug me so it's better to just do it now! OK, off to the sewing room!

Swiss Dot Love

2008-05-06T08:52:00.011-05:00

The sun is shining, the birds are singing, the flowers are blooming... and I'm in love!!!... In love with my vintage swiss dot fabric!

Don't get me wrong. I love my husband and children too. But the swiss dot is fulfilling such a wonderful desire. It's the desire of fabric that sews up beautifully. It doesn't stretch or slip, it doesn't fray, it gathers like a dream and drapes gracefully. ...sigh... I love being in love.

This fabric is such a joy to work with that I've hard a hard time walking away from this project. Sometimes I work out of order from the instruction. I've done so with this project, starting with the skirt. I just wanted to get a feel for how the fabric handles, and I always run a few test scraps to adjust the tension.

Because the fabric is very light weight, if the sun is behind you, well... so I decided to make a simple skirt lining. I chose a beautiful tissue weight 60% linen/40% cotton blend. I wanted something simple that would add a bit of structure (so the skirt wouldn't hang limply) and provide modesty, not fight the shape of the skirt and remain cool and breathable (since this is obviously a summer dress).

Sure, I could wear a slip. But this is a classy dress and I felt it deserves a proper lining. The linen/cotton worked perfectly. I simply cut the pieces identical to the skirt, only one inch shorter, then basted it to the top waistline. Doris is modeling the skirt, although it's not gathered. But it does show how nicely it hangs.

After finishing the skirt section, I began the bodice. It's pretty straight forward. The only thing I had to watch with this fabric is when the needle stitches into a dot. The dot gives a bit of resistance to the needle and gets punched down slightly into the feed dogs. This was easily rectified by placing my fingers to the outside and bottom of the presser foot, just to keep the fabric taught and to prevent the punching.

The detailing on the bodice is oh so feminine. The back neck is actually seamed rather than having a tie or closure. Pleats are pressed at the back neck seam which makes the fabric go to into flattering and gentle folds down the front bustline. The front neckline has a hemline that is folded, hemmed and then edgestitched.

The bottom of the bodice bustline is gathered. Boy does this fabric gather splendidly! After gathering, it is attached to the midriff section. I took my time pinning and sewing this distinct curve. The bustline and midriff are the main design features and most visible so I want my stitching to be extremely accurate for a smooth and crisp line.

After that, I made up the back bodice. It has two skinny darts, just enough to add shaping. The back is then seamed to front at the sides, leaving the left side open for the zip below the dot.

I tried it on and I'm thrilled that fit is coming out perfectly. I knew from my initial tests of measuring the pattern pieces and holding it up that it would be close and require minimal tweaking. But to need nothing... did I mention that I'm in love?

I finished to this point on Saturday. Sunday we went to Six Flags Great America and had a blast! I did type up a blog entry yesterday, but when I hit publish, I got an error message and lost my post! At that point, my sewing time was ticking away so I left the post for today (which I will copy before trying to publish).

I'm nearly finished with the dress (I finished the bodice facing and attached the skirt) and have been thinking about the jacket. Yesterday, I felt that I was running out of time (because of the impending move) and would have stop with the dress only. Today, I want to make the whole ensemble. However, I've changed my mind about using the blue swiss dot for the jacket (with the tan contrast).

Instead, I ordered an ivory linen/silk blend fabric from Thai Silks. I'll use that for the jacket, and still use the tan dot dress fabric for the collar and cuffs. The dots are in fact an off-white ivory opposed to pure white. I don't know if that's how the fabric was originally made or if it's due to aging. I think the ivory linen/silk will add a real touch of class - well, that's the idea any way.

Moving On

2008-05-01T16:36:00.008-05:00

I can't stay idle for long. Idle without a new project to begin, that is.

The PR Vintage Sewing contest is underway. I had so much fun participating last year. It's incredible to see what old patterns people have lurking in the depths of their stash. Even more, it's fun to see the glorious garments that are made from them.

Last year, I entered two items in the contest. This year, because of our impending move, I'll only have time for one. The task of deciding what to make out of what has been tough. Of course, that's all my own doing because I want to make everything!

I've been going round and round trying to decide which one to make, and of course, with what fabric. Many patterns were pulled out and sprawled on my cutting table. An equal amount of fabric came out from closet. All were placed side by side, shifted and mulled over again and again.

I kept going back to McCalls 9333 from 1953. It's a classic halter dress with jacket. I have many fabrics that I think would look gorgeous sewn up in this pattern. But I kept going back to some sweet vintage fabric: swiss dot that I'm fortunate to have in both blue and tan. It's a beauty of a fabric, 100% cotton, lightweight and slightly crisp. I washed it, worried that the little fuzzy dots would flake away. But they remained in tact and when ironed, a lovely subtle sheen came out of the cotton.

I started to cut the pattern today. It's always fun. Every vintage pattern brings questions and speculation that make my thoughts drift away. Whoever previously owned this pattern made the jacket only; the dress was still factory folded and uncut. It made me look at the jacket in a bit more detail. More often than not, it's the dress that is made leaving the jacket untouched. Somebody recognized the smart details of the shawl collar, cuffs and buttoned front. I wonder what fabric she used? Where did wear it? Was it for a special occasion or a good, smartly styled jacket meant for regular use?

I have more of the tan swiss dot than the blue. My plan is to make the dress entirely in the tan. Time permitting, I'll make the jacket in blue with tan for the collar and cuff contrast.

After I cut the dress, I went ahead and took pictures of the RTW Real Silk Dress/Jacket that was similar to the poly imposter I found the other day! Thanks so much for all of the fun replies! Apart from being a hoot, it's a great way to knuckle down and learn more about fabrics, weaves and manufacture.

Will the Real Silk Please Stand Up!

2008-04-29T17:07:00.004-05:00

You know the drill. You tell yourself it's just a quick stop to the fabric store to pick up some thread and zipper for the latest project. That's all you'll get... until you wander around and start looking at the fabric and stumble upon something that's on sale that you simply can't pass by.

Well, that's my story and I'm sticking to it. During said latest fabric store excursion for thread and a zip, this particular fabric caught my eye. At first glance, I thought it was silk. When I picked it up, it felt like silk. In fact, it turned out to be 100% polyester. I was a bit disappointed because I really like natural fabrics and the recent Silk Only Contest at PR got me in the mood for this wonderful and diversified fabric.

Still, it was interesting. I liked the hand and since it was on sale, I dropped it into the cart. During my drive home, I thought about my new fabric and pondered what I might make out of it. Maybe another vintage party dress or even a suit.

Then it hit me like a brick wall. I know why I like this fabric so much! I actually own a RTW jacket/dress made out of a 100% GENUINE silk that is remarkably similar to the poly. Trying to remain focused on the remainder of the drive home, I came home and shot immediately up to my sewing room. (My husband thought I had gone on a spending frenzy at the fabric store and was trying to sneak stuff in. That's a story for another day.)

I put the fabric down and got the silk garment from my closet. Oh my! It wasn't identical, but it sure was similar. I held the new fabric, I held the silk jacket/dress. I ran the new fabric through my fingers, I ran the silk jacket/dress through my fingers. This polyester impostor was so like the silk! Even the hand was samey, from the texture to the drape.

I'm not an expert on fabrics. I've never even done a burn test. Can you tell which is which? I know it's a bit unfair, since you cannot handle them (and I need better lighting for sharper pics). Maybe I'm just inexperienced and naive in fabric fiber identification... but here they are:

Which fabric is the REAL SILK - "A" or "B" ? Stay tuned for the answer.

Calling All Dress Detectives: Vintage Vietnamese Dress? Or What is It?

2008-04-26T16:57:00.011-05:00

Since I had to occupy myself with things other than sewing today (too much going on to start a new project today- hubs on the go, house showings, yadda, yadda), I thought I'd talk about this very unique dress.

I often poke around at my local Goodwill. Last week I wandered on over when I vacated my house for a showing. In the dress section, I came across this dress. I got kind of excited about it. At first glance, the orange and brown pattern jumped out as 60's or 70's and oh so groovy. When I took the hanger off of the rack for a closer inspection, I saw that on many levels it was not "regular groovy" on many.

First, was the fabric. It's a sheer organza with that bit of sparkle. Could it be silk organza? Second, is the design. It has an oriental styling with it's Mandarin top and collar. The waist is nipped and the full length skirt flares with two tall slits a the sides. It looks designed to be worn over something else.

Most intriguing of all, however, are the label, the size and the workmanship. The garment looks handmade. It's actually quite simply made. The front is all one piece, as is the back. The sleeves are cut in, with a longer, lower sleeve sewn in at the biceps. There are vertical waist darts at the front and back and then horizontal bust darts at the front. You can see pen markings on the inside at the darts (it's transparent after all). The stitching is uneven and wonky all over.

The label says (and I can't recreate some of the letters/punctuation) "NHA MAY - Van Cri - 98 TO H THANH SAIGON". Saigon? My brain raced when I read it. Didn't Saigon stop being called Saigon in 1975 when it became Ho Chi Minh City after the fall to the North Vietnamese? What was this dress?

I held it and pondered. The organza felt like it could be silk. Or was I imagining that now because of the label? The price tag was $4.99, so I had to try it on.

To my disappointment, it was small. I'm not talking a-little-bit-snug small. I mean so incredibly small the arm of the dress didn't get past the bicep on my arm. I know I'm not supermodel thin (who is, besides supermodels?). But this was nano small.

Even so, I couldn't walk away from it. By now, I was so intrigued by this dress I had to have it. Did this dress really come from Saigon pre-1975? It would explain the groovy orange and brown colors. Who made it? Is the label's NHA MAY a Vietnamese seamstress or a company? How were clothes manufactured in Vietnam back then? Would it explain the basic construction? Were clothes like this manufactured as a response to military troops to purchase as gifts for loved ones back home? Did a soldier buy it for a loved one back home or perhaps, did a soldier come back with a wife? A soldier might not know about size, hence explaining why it's so small. It might also explain why it has virtually no wear and tear (...it was too small for dear Betty). On a completely different spin, could some girl have made it in home ec back in the 70's, and stuck a label on, stolen from some unused garment knocking around the house? The truth is, I simply don't know.

The dress opened so many exciting questions that I HAD to have it. My father was a Vietnam Veteran and I wish I could show it to him somehow to see what he thought.

But since that's not possible, I post the dress here for all of you to see. It's so small, it doesn't fit Doris so I had to take pictures of it on a hanger (I measured the dress' waist - it's 24"!) I hope it's as interesting and exciting for you as it is for me. I also hope that we can all be Dress Detectives and maybe find some answers to this lovely, and most likely, vintage dress. What do you think?

The Sari Dress is Finished

2008-04-25T17:38:00.011-05:00

I did it today! I did it!

It's such a good feeling when you finish a project, isn't it? With all of the moving stuff, I wasn't sure at the onset if I'd be able to do it. I wrote up the review on PR and entered it in the Silk Only Contest.

For the last two days, I worked on the overbodice lining. The lining is constructed the same as the overbodice, then is attached at the neckline, bust front and the armholes. Then, it's turned right side out. The side seams are opened out, right sides put together then joined. When it's back in place, the seams are on the inside.

The midriff was seamed at the right side; lining is constructed the same way, then basted at the sides and bottom. At the top edge, it is pressed over at the seam allowance, which is slipstitched into place.

I love to see a lining put in place. It gives the garment so much shape and it really begins to look finished. They're so nice and smooth and you know you're on the home stretch!

Once the linings were in place, the overbodice and bodice were attached. The bodice is completely open on the left side and it fit PERFECTLY in the open edge (below where the seam ends) of the overbodice. Don't you just rejoice when things line up?

After basting the left side and bottom edges together, I joined the bodice to the skirt. This was straight forward.

Even the zipper went in easily. I made a decision to only fuse interfacing into the skirt part of the zipper opening. Admittedly, I was nearly in a sweat over that. But the bodice already had four layers of fabric: sari/organza - dupioni/organza and was quite thick. Thankfully, it turned out well. However, I do not advocate eliminating fusible interfacing on zippers! I think I just used up my Get Out of Jail Free card.

For the hem, I used hem tape because of the extreme fraying. I pinked the edges prior to stitching the tape, then blind hemmed around. Because of the pleat, the seam must be opened, pressed and clipped at the spot where the hem is turned up to. Once hem is stitched in placed, re-press the pleat. Amazingly, this works!

I'm happy with the end result. I was wary about whether or not I'd be able to work with such a slippery and fragile fabric. Underlining is a must and it's amazing how much strength and structure it provides.

This is going to be another busy weekend... One of my closest girlfriends is coming over in a little while. We grew up together (Girl Scouts, etc.) and about once every other month, she comes over and we work on sewing projects together. While the speed of our works on these nights isn't spectactular, we do manage to get motivated and catch up with each other!

Happy Friday!

Feeling Loopy

2008-04-20T08:48:00.007-05:00

For Christmas, I asked for a variety of sewing gadgets: bias strip makers, a mini rotary cutter, a pin cushion (after knocking over my pin box for the gazillionth time) and a loop pull. Santa delivered!

Yesterday, I finally had the opportunity to use the loop pull. All I have to ask is, how on earth did I survive for so long without this thing?

I strayed away from items with straps or substituted cord for button loops. The bodice of the sari dress has straps. It's a shame that the over bodice in the view I'm making covers them up (if you did the other view with a sheer overdress, you'd see them).

Not only did I make them, but I did so with the dupioni, underlined with the organza. The long edge is seamed, then a second, reinforcing seam is stitched 1/8" out. These hooks really do work. If you don't have one, go out and get one! Within moments, my straps were easily turned.

Ironically, I ran out of the champagne colored bobbin thread just as I stitched the last little edge of the strap closed; only perhaps a yard of thread was left on the spool. This will be just enough to hand sew the straps in place. So often, we pull our hair out or moan and groan for running out of things at the most inopportune moments. I felt it was necessary to point out that sometimes, things work out just right!!!

I also got the overbodice lining cut, darted and seamed, then sewn in place. I love making linings. It makes me feel like I'm getting to the home stretch of a project. However, this is where I made a big mistake. When I finished seaming the neckline and arm seams, I realized: I put the right lining side to the wrong overbodice side!!!! Holy gaff Batman!!! I was so mad at myself! In my defense, I was squeezing my beloved sewing inbetween cleaning for a house showing and birthday and anniversary preparations (today is our son's birthday AND our anniversary). I didn't take the time to "check twice, sew once".

After the cursing subsided, I started to laugh at myself for such a mindless goof. In fact, I felt relieved. This project was going way too smoothly. That makes me nervous. When things too well, I'm kind of waiting for the whole project to spontaneously burst into flames. This error restored my faith that it is a normal project and I can now calmly proceed to the finish line. After dinner, I returned to my sewing room and put the lining in the correct way, then called it a day.

I probably won't get any sewing done today. It's gorgeous here in Chicagoland. We'll likely potter around outside and I'll bake a birthday cake this afternoon. Sewing will resume per "normal" tomorrow.

The Cumberbun

2008-04-18T14:34:00.006-05:00

Well, I didn't get any sewing done today. Not only did I have a showing yesterday, but two popped up today. I'm no June Cleaver; she made housekeeping look so natural! Maybe if I start to dress like her, the cleaning will fall in line. You know... look the part, act the part, then you shall be? Yeah, right!

Anyway, about the cumberbun. I constructed it yesterday and only have to sew on four hooks and eyes. It is seamed one side, with gathering at both openings on the other side. I underlined this piece as well because dupioni frays and needs strength.

Prior to gathering, one side is seamed and the edges of the other side are pressed over at the seamline RIGHT sides together. Then you stitch at the top and bottom edges and turn right side out, and you hem the side in place. Then the top and bottom edges are narrow hemmed.

I'm one of those people who actually likes to narrow hem. I've read many posts by people who dislike this step. To me, it's a little like magic, going from something with no shape and tatty edges, to a piece (or section of a garment) to suddenly looking finished. You can really get an idea of the final product. Pressing the little hems down seals the deal!

The gathering is quite straight forward. I stitched 1/4" from the side edges and both sides of the seam. These are then to be gathered to four inches. I actually had an "ah ha" moment at this point! I began fiddling with the gathers (you can lose a lot of time fiddling with gathers) to get them to the right length and stay. Then "ah ha"! I thought to myself: "Self, the gathers will be sewn to 'seam binding ribbon'. Just cut THOSE to four inches, pin and pull!"

I pinned the hem tape (although I think twill tape would have been sturdier?), adjusted the length and sewed into place. On the side, I sewed directly into the seam. When looking at the wrong side, the stitching is a bit wonky... I'll need more practice to keep stitches in gathering straight, even though you can't see it on the right side.

Hopefully I'll have a reprieve from viewings tomorrow so that I can progress some more over the weekend!

Back in the Groove

2008-04-15T11:55:00.009-05:00

I resumed work on the sari dress yesterday. Although, I was tired and a bit slow yesterday, I picked up the momentum again today.

Working with dupioni is a dream. (Thinking about it, ANY fabric would be a dream after the ANTI-Fabric.) I've been constructing the bodice, which has side bust darts and vertical darts in the front and back. Before sewing the darts, I fused the interfacing strip along the top front for the decorative stitching. I'm very pleased with the results. It's kind of a shame that most of this will be covered by the overbodice. I suppose, though, when it's said and done and just peeking out from under the overbodice, it will look right.

The bodice has a top hem instead of a facing. I pressed the hem over prior to making the side (right) seam, which I figured would be easier to do at this stage. Dupioni presses and holds the crease well. After the side was seamed, the bottom hem is stitched under. At this point, the instructions call for the hem to be hand stitched all the way around the inside. I didn't want to to that and decided to edge stitch at the top instead.

The edgestitching came out well. Dupioni is perfect for this with a nice, straight, pressed edged. There is no curling or slipping so the stitches came out even and straight.

The next step will be constructing the straps. After that, I'll make the lining for the overbodice. THEN, the overbodice can be attached to the dupioni bodice which then can be attached to the skirt... (the hip bone's connected to the thigh bone; the thigh bone's connected to the knee bone...)

I'm not sure how much more I'll get done today. I'm getting a wee bit better at knowing when to call it day before disaster strikes!

OK, I Squeezed in a Bit More!

2008-04-10T20:27:00.006-05:00

Hee hee, what can I say? When the sewing mojo is flowing, you've got to run with it! I was quite anxious to get the skirt seamed because of the extreme fraying.

I finished the back pleat and seamed the skirt back and side pieces. The details on these vintage dresses is what attracts me to them. I was a bit circumspect about how the silk would handle being folded, stitched and then stitched at the top of the pleat place. The pattern piece shows the pleat fold line and the stitching.

Thankfully, it stitched beautifully. The organza really does the trick. Without it, the sari silk would be extremely difficult to manage, and I can't imagine what state the seams would be in. On the seams, I used an overcast stitch.

The pieces are now hanging on Doris waiting for me to return. I'm happy to go away, feeling like I've not neglected my project!

Back pleat (left) and

pieces hanging on Doris:

Back - skirt darts (below left), Front (below right).

Weekend Getaway

2008-04-10T15:57:00.003-05:00

I've made some more progress on the dress.

The darts are in the front and back overbodice, and the shoulders seamed. The darts and gathering are in the front and back skirt, and the back center is seamed. I started working on the back, lower pleat when it was time to stop and get my son from school.

So for now, I'll stop there. Tomorrow I'm heading out to New Jersey for the weekend to meet a group of friends. I'm really looking forward to getting together with them. We are all Halloween enthusiasts and make our own props.

I started making my own Halloween decorations when I lived in England. Even though it is celebrated there, it's not to the extent that it is here... and it is frowned upon by lots of people. There weren't lots of decorations in the stores (although it seems to be increasing in popularity all of the time) so I got into creating my own stuff.

Much of my own display is handmade; I'm lucky to have a handy, willing and enthusiastic husband. My display has a vintage flavor (surprise, surprise!)... even though Halloween is quite a way off, as with any hobby, working on projects is year round.

I'll be back to my silk dress on Monday.

Decorative Stitching

2008-04-08T13:23:00.004-05:00

It occurred to me that perhaps this dress could benefit from a wee bit of decorative stitching.

The sari silk already has an all over pattern. But the dupioni contrast seems, in my opinion boring. I've been on the fence about whether or not to embellish it. Would decorative stitching make it look over done? Cheap? Or, if not embellished, would the dupioni appear dull compared to the elegant sari silk?

To settle the matter, I ran a swatch, (which I would have to do any way if I decide to go with the stitching). I cut a patch of the dupioni and fused interfacing to the back to stablize the silk. I have a Viking Sapphire 850. This machine has something like 130 stitches. I chose a scrolly-leafy stitch that I thought matched the sari pattern best.

I'm quite happy with how it looks and will use it. Here's a picture of my sample, placed underneath the two front overbodice pieces. It shows how it will look on the final garment. What's the point of having all of these stitches if I don't use them!

Busy, Busy

2008-04-08T08:29:00.003-05:00

I made great progress on the silk sari dress the first few days of the project. Since then, every time I try to get underway, it seems my realtor calls to schedule a showing.

This has slowed things down a bit. Still, all of the sari pieces have the underlining basted. Next I can either underline the dupioni bodice/contrast pieces OR start on the darts of the dress. Progress will be slow over the next few days because I'm going out of town this weekend to visit friends on the east coast. However, I should be able to sneak in a bit of sewing here and there.

Underlining and Hats

2008-04-03T18:04:00.012-05:00

So, what's the connection between underlining and hats ? Actually, nothing, except for the fact that both have been a part of my life for the last two days! Yesterday afternoon, a realtor tour was held at my house. I had to vacate the premises for three hours. What's a girl to do for three hours? It's easy! Shop!

I went to TK Maxx where a hat box was on clearance for $5. It called out to me. I used to wear hats a lot. The ones I wore usually were the fun and groovy styles from the days back when I lived in downtown Chicago. I walked everywhere (I didn't have a car) and, well, hats just seemed to go hand and hand with walking around being a young, city chick. Remember when Mary Tyler Moore threw her hat in the air at the end of the opening theme song? "You're gonna make it afterall!"

I bought my first dressy hat when I lived in England. During my eight years there, I attended several weddings. Over on that side of the pond, hats are still a popular tradition at weddings. I was so excited to have the opportunity to buy and wear a beautiful, dressy hat.

The one I found was lovely. It was elegant but not over done. The crown was covered in ivory silk that went into a fold where it met the medium sized, ivory mesh brim. A simple bow in the same silk adorned the center back.

I received many compliments on my hat at those weddings. Since the majority of the women were also wearing a hat, it was nice for it to be considered normal for the occasion, opposed to extravagant or pretentious.

In between weddings, my beloved hat sat on a back shelf in my closet, hidden by my clothes. It never occured to me to get a hat box. Hat boxes were only in old movies and tv shows; nobody actually used them because ladies didn't wear hats very often any more.

Then one day while purging through my wardrobe, to my horror I made a terrible discovery. My (now deceased) cat had been using my hat as a bed! Not only was it covered in black and orange fur, but the crown was partially caved in and dented in several places. I tried to "pop" the dents out and back into place, but it was to no avail. My hat was destroyed beyond repair.

I never bought another dressy hat. We moved back to the US and we've not been to a wedding in ages... Then last year I picked up a black vintage one at an antique mall. It has been sitting in my sewing room on a wig head. Yesterday when I brought home the hat box, I placed my vintage hat inside of it. A perfect fit!

I have visions of my closet shelf being filled with hat boxes, containing the vintage hats I hope to collect... My poor ivory hat did not perished in vain. I dedicate my new hat box to it. I now know better and will protect all of my hats in boxes from this day forward.

While I was blissfully sitting on the sewing room floor, placing the lid on and off of my hat box, to my delight, Fed Ex arrived with my silk organza!

It sure is lovely stuff! I couldn't stop rubbing it between my fingers enjoying the combined crispness and smoothness of the fabric. The enjoyment did not fade today as I hand washed then ironed it in preparation for cutting.

Just as I laid it out and put the rotary cutter to work, I had to stop: my realtor called and I had a viewing at 3:30... still determined after the viewing was over several hours later, I finished cutting and basted the first piece to the silk sari.

I carefully pinned by making sure two fingers held the fabric without slipping, pinning inbetween the fingers. I didn't force or pull to avoid distorting the drape of the sari.

This was the first time I ever sewed this type of silk. The sari is, I'm assuming, similar to handling a charmeuse, although I don't know for sure having never sewn with it. I was concerned about 1) slippage and 2) the two fabrics "stretching" differently, causing puckering.

To my delight, it was much easier to handle than I anticipated (based on the back overbodice piece only). I sewed directionally to avoid twisting by keeping the stitching going in the same direction.

This last picture is the back overbodice with the silk organza underlining basted in. You can see how it really gives the sari silk structure. It will also provide extra strength at the seams which will be greatly needed since the sari is a fragile fabric.

I hope to get all of the organza basted tomorrow and with any luck, start construction!

Cutting

2008-04-01T18:12:00.006-05:00

To me, cutting fabric is like giving it life. In one moment, it goes from a flat piece of cloth, to being on it's way to something: something in somebody's life.

I laid out the sari silk and it was immediately evident that it required care in squaring out. It is the type of silk that pulls and distorts quite easily. The bordered edge (which I was hoping to use as trim), unfortunately had a long thread pulled. On the bright side, I was able to use it as a guide, or "the straight of goods" as it's called on the vintage patterns. It's much more fun to say than "grainline".

Also because of its twisty tendencies, I decided to use the rotary cutter for much of the cutting, rather than scissors. I didn't want the scissors to pull and twist the fabric any more than necessary. It was the first time I used them and I was happy with the results. The long edges were very straight and clean - none of those "sawblade" cuts.

I'm using a light gold dupioni for the contrast (from my stash) for the underbodice and the cumberbund. It's a great match to the scrolls in the sari and hopefully will brighten up the finished garment.

Now I have to wait for the silk organza to arrive. The next step is cutting and basting the organza for the underlining.

I'm happy with the progress that I made today.

The Excitement of Preparation

2008-03-31T12:23:00.005-05:00

I love starting out on a new project. Some of my most productive thinking is done while ironing freshly washed fabric for the next project. It's the first real "test" of the fabric. Sure, I may have fondled it at the store or when I first took out of the package upon delivery. But prepping it takes it one step further.

Today, I washed and ironed my sari silk for the PR One Fabric Silk contest. (BTW, I'm not competitive. I join these contests for the camaraderie, learning and motivation.) The care instructions said hand wash, so I put it in the "silk hand wash" setting of my front loader, then ironed with a cool iron.

This is a good opportunity to look closely for any flaws or marks which will be taken into account during layout and cutting. It came out perfectly; this is truly scrummy fabric.

I also pulled out the instructions and pattern pieces from the envelope. This pattern was still in it's factory folds. I get mixed feelings about a vintage pattern in this almost-like-new condition. Initially, I'm in awe of it and elated at the acquisition of such a gem. But when the time comes to pulling the tissue from those perfect and tight, never-to-be-duplicated-again folds, I somehow feel like I'm desecrating something pure.

This feeling usually passes once the pattern is laid out and cutting begins. It is replaced by the excitement of speculating what the lady who originally bought this pattern had in mind for it. What fabric would she have used? I'm guessing it wasn't sari silk. Will my creation be worthy ?

Since I can't begin cutting until tomorrow when the contest begins, I think I shall let the pattern remain factory folded for one more day.

In the meantime, I returned from the new house yesterday evening. We are all so excited! My husband will be staying there during the week and will begin painting during the evenings. The carpeting has been shampooed and is ready for our things.

As much as I was sorry to leave the new house, I was keen to return to my projects. I wrote up the review for the Catwoman costume, which can be viewed on PR http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?reviewnum=27324 . I didn't take pictures of me modeling the costume; I don't want to scare my readers away just yet! The project didn't quite work for me, but that's ok.

The excitement of a new vintage pattern project always comes to my rescue.

2008-03-27T18:57:00.003-05:00

I finished the Catwoman costume today, but ran out of daylight for pictures. When I get the photos, I'll write about the project in more detail. It's one of those projects I'm glad to see the back side of, but still feel a sense of accomplishment for seeing it through. Could've been better, could've been worse.

In the meantime, my thoughts are now on tomorrow when we close on our new house. This move has been in the pipeworks for some time now, and several weeks ago, we thought it was probably going to be called off. Because of the delay, we decided stay in our current home until the end of the school year.

There are lots reasons why I'm excited about the move. First, it will be the first time ever that my husband's job will require very little travel. Most of the time, he'll finish around 5:00 and be home by 5:30. This will be great for us as a family; the boys are so excited! Maybe the first day, I'll wear one of my 50's dresses, greet him at the door with a drink, take his briefcase and ask him about his day... wait, no. On second thought, that would freak him out and he'd think I'd done something awful...

I'm hoping that Peoria will have a slower pace of life. I really love Chicagoland. It's my home. Twice, I moved away from it, and twice I came back. But after eight years of living in rural England, I've found that I've slowed down a couple of gears. Hopefully, the lifestyle in Peoria is a relaxed one.

Now, here's what really has me jazzed. I love the new house. Apart from some very nice features and a great floor plan, I will have a.... sewing annex! Yup, not just a room, but an annex!

I really hope that I don't sound selfish or spoiled. My current sewing room is lovely and I'm fortunate to have it. But the new house has one 13' x 12' bedroom, with an attached 10' x 16' private bonus room. After we closed the deal on the house, the boys started arguing about who was going to have that room.

With the other two bedrooms equal in size, there was no way that either of them could have the bonus room bedroom. That would be incredibly unjust! What kind of respectable and loving mother would place such priviledge with one kid, and leave the other in the dust. It could be misconstrued as favoritism for which one child could send me therapy bills for the rest of life, stemming from this very moment.

The solution was simple. It would be mine. Mine. ALL MINE!!!!!!!!!!!!

The prospect of so much sewing space is daunting... a little bit. I want to really set it up well by putting a lot of thought into the layout and design. It should also look great. Boy, I hope I'm up to the job!

So tomorrow we'll be heading down for the 1:00 closing, then we will spend the weekend in the new house. We're bringing the carpet shampooer, paint color strips, the tape measure and camera.

Even though I won't actually be sewing until Monday again, my head will be spinning with the possibilities of my new space!

Oh, yeah, the house has a kitchen too.

There's Always "The Next" Project

2008-03-26T13:27:00.007-05:00

If you're anything like me, you're always thinking of the next project or two... or ten. It doesn't matter that you're not finished with the current project. Or that there are maybe a half dozen UFOs hanging around.

I'm easily distracted. All it takes is for something like this little blip on my current Catwoman costume to set my mind adrift, to the next project unmarred by problems.

The poly/lycra/metallic stretch fabric is lightweight and slippery. The picture shows how the inside facing caught during topstitching and "pleated". This should have been a quick, ten minute fix. However, this is no ordinary fabric: it's ANTI-FABRIC that had plotted to usurp me. I argued with it for over 45 minutes, but in the end I won.

I redid that piece of topstitching and at this point, I set down the project and wandered to my closet. My glorious closet with my luscious stash! I guestimate there's around 500 yards of fabric knocking around in there... maybe more. I was hoping to nail down what I was going to do for an upcoming sewing with silk competition, which begins April 1 on my favorite sewing forum, Pattern Review. Thus far, a clear vision has eluded me.

While the stash is substantial (at least to me), proportionately there's not a heck of a lot of silk. And what I do have is mostly dupioni. The exceptions are three yards of vintage, 100% silk tweed and just under two yards of 100% silk sari.

The tweed really needs the right pattern; something special, something vintage. That pattern is not yet in my stash.

I like my dupioni, otherwise I wouldn't have gobbled up as much on clearance as I have. But for a sewing with silk contest, I want to do something unique. Don't get me wrong, I've seen many stunning and clever things done with dupioni. I just don't seem to have that kind of knack with it yet.

So my eyes turned to the sari silk. This fabric is luscious. The drape is graceful, the texture buttery. The gold scrolls on the black background are very much to my taste. It's understated and elegant. What to do with just under two yards has been stumping me since I picked it up last summer.

I went straight to my vintage collection and began thumbing through them. Ah HA!!! I pulled the pattern out of the bin and turned it to the back, hoping that the yardage would be small enough for my silk. Imagine my smile when it was!

So it's settled then. My next project will be from vintage 1960, McCalls 5349. I'll do version B (the green one), without the overskirt. Who'd want to cover up this gorgeous fabric anyway?

In the meantime... Holy Feline Batman! Time is ticking away and I need to get back to the Catwoman costume, refreshed and with purpose!

I'd Like to Introduce Somebody Special.

2008-03-25T17:02:00.004-05:00

As a first order of business, I think it's only proper to make an important introduction.

This is somebody who, should you decide to visit here regularly, you will see quite often. Please meet Doris, my dress form.

Doris is my faithful companion. She only charged a nominal, one-time flat fee: her purchase price. While not an exact duplicate of my own figure, I got her proportions pretty close to my own.

She works strange hours for me. Sometimes, we get going in the morning and work straight through until the kids get home from school. Other times we start late and go into the wee hours. Sometimes we go all day non-stop.

It can be gruelling, with garments put on and off, off and on... She regularly gets stuck with pins and frequently, I'm embarrassed to admit, has to listen to my grumbling and cursing when a project isn't going well.

Apart from pretty dresses, she has to model costumes, which sometimes are for men or children. This past Halloween, poor Doris braved the humility of being transformed into a Halloween witch prop which stood at my front door to greet trick or treaters. This required having a foam wig head stuck on her neck, held in place by panty hose. Once, the dog even knocked her over.

Doris has endured all of these things gracefully and not once has she complained. She stands ready for whatever task comes next.

I've grown fond of Doris and named her after the lovely Doris Day. It only seemed fitting, given her sunny disposition and unbounding energy for our adventures. I couldn't do my work without her.

Thanks Doris!

For The Love of Retro

2008-03-25T14:30:00.000-05:00

This is my first attempt at blogging. I'm doing it because I love vintage and retro fashion. Hopefully this space will document my hobby and will be shared with others who have similar interests. What fun is a hobby if one cannot share it?

I have no set expectations as to what exact style or form it will take, or what type of things it will include. It should just evolve as appropriate. As the title suggests, When Ladies Dressed will be a tribute to women from decades past: a time when dressing for our lifestyles was more defined. While the main focus will be on women and their roles back in the day, I'm likely prattle on about fashion, fabric, accessories, films, culture and anything (plant, animal or mineral) that is vintage or retro. (I own lava lamps, donut phones, a Mr. Peanut peanut butter maker, Creepy Crawlers, numerous cookie jars... )

There are likely a few key reasons I've developed these passions. First, I was raised by my grandparents who were frugal, Depression era survivors. I spent a lot of time as a kid in the 70's surrounded by Great Aunts and Uncles. Aunt Estelle (my grandpa's sister) was always smartly dressed and formed quite an impression on me. She took great pride in her appearance, from her perfectly coiffed hair, to the shoes on her feet. This never waivered. The last time I saw her, there she stood, a frail woman in her late 80's dressed in a suit and heels, clutching her matching purse. She had been to the hairdresser the day before.

Our house was a modest three bedroom, brick raised ranch built in 1956 in suburban Chicago. We had gray sculpted carpting, a purple sectional sofa and blonde wood end/coffee tables. Our kitchen housed a chrome legged dinette set. The table top had that formica top, which had a few chips by the time I was a kid. It wasn't damaged enough, though, to warrant throwing out. The chairs were shiny, gray and pink vinyl, trimmed with chrome studs. My grandmother served meals wearing an apron.

Gram was addicted to saving store coupons, receipts and box tops which she would trade in to grocery stores for things like dishes or novelty brand items. Remember the Kool-Aid cups from the 70's? Or the Campbell Soup Kids bowls? Yup, we had those and more.

I had little to say about what I wore and my grandmother had zero fashion sense. I was an overweight child, due to my grandparent's obsession about food (EVERYTHING on the plate had to be eaten, and the portion sizes were huge for a kid). I was pretty darn unattractive, teased and was the subject of fat jokes. I lived vicariously through Barbie and Marcia Brady!

The battle with weight is one that carried on throughout most of my adult life. Now, however, as a 41 year old wife and mother of two, my weight is the best it's ever been. Since slimming down a few years ago, I've fallen in love with clothes. It's not that I completely hated them before, (although sometimes I did) it's more like I've rediscovered them - for myself, rather than for dressing Barbie.

I love sewing clothes. Most of the things I make are from the vintage patterns I collect, or are costumes. They are things I can't really buy in the stores. I'm not a great sewist, but I'm not so bad either. The more I learn, the more I want to learn and improve. Little did I know back in the late 70's when I signed up for the Sewing Badge in Girl Scouts that I'd develop such a passion for this hobby.

These factors and others (I can't write everything at once) undoubtedly have contributed to where I'm at now. Perhaps my status as a full time housewife (or Director of Domestic Affairs, if you like), has drawn me back to the imagery of my youth, giving my vintage/retro self an outlet to emerge.

Thanks for taking a look, thanks for reading and come back any time...